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Take the old washers to the local parts store a match through what they have. That's what I had to do.

Thanks BigKev...will do! Still waiting for the master cylinder to arrive. So much for 2 day shipping! I investigated my hand brake some more. First I soaked it in PB Blaster. I do not have a spring at the end as shown in Tobs blog but realized I have not been pulling out the handle enough! With someone else moving the handle while I observed it became clear I was not reaching the ratchet assembly. The PB Blaster made everything move easier. I was able to use the handle to release the brake. It still needs adjustment and will stick on a tooth. When that happens, I pull the handle out a little more while twisting and it releases. Good enough for now!

7-8-16

Got the master cylinder finally. Took the 3 way portion off the old one. The washer looked in good shape so I'm taking a chance and reusing it.

Been a challenge to get the new master in. I hooked up all the hard lines first then tried to bolt the master to the frame. No matter what I did I could not get the bolts to line up.

Took the master out again and started the bolts to the frame first. Tried to get the drivers side hard line on and it wouldn't line up! Got frustrated, threw some tools and that was it for the day.

When I get the energy, next I will try hooking up the drivers hard line first, then start the bolts to the frame and finally reattach the other hard lines. We will see how that goes.

Thinking of going to the Iola car show tomorrow. It's a long drive but according to the map, they have a Packard section!

When attaching tubing fittings to their parts (fuel pumps, carburetors, master cylinders, etc.) I like to fasten the part to it mounting loosely so it can move around some. Then, attach the tubing fitting. Next, tighten the part down and finish tightening the fittings. Having the part be moveable helps to line up the fittings easier.

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Thanks JW...I will give it a try! The hardest one is the drivers side line. You can't even get a wrench around the fitting with the master cylinder in it's place. Having the bolts started on it first before attaching it may be the trick.

For a bit of a break, I ended up going to the car show in Iona, WI. It was HUGE and there were Packards! Not a lot, but more than I have seen in roughly 20 years! I'll post some pics under the Shows and Events forum.

I have also found it is better to use a specialized fitting wrench when space allows. It is like a six-sided box end wrench with a slot cut to allow the wrench to fit over the tubing. It will get into places an open end wrench will not and fits over more of the flats to prevent rounding off of the fitting. Generally available where good quality tools are sold. Good luck...

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7-11-16

Thanks again JW...those wrenches are the ones I have been using. Without them, I round off the fittings easily.

Lots of progress today. I used JW's advice and kept everything loose. First I started a few threads of the front driver's side line into the master cylinder. I was then able to wiggle the master cylinder around and got the mounting bolts started. Went back to the hard line and snugged it in. Finally tightened the mounting bolt then attached the other 2 hard lines.

One area of concern is the drivers side line appears to have been bent a little tighter than I intended. It is not crimped, but a sharp bend that might have narrowed the diameter a little. Hard to tell as I don't have a good light. When I put the 3 way port on the front of the master cylinder it turned way to the left instead of straight. That adds to the difficulty. The prongs for the brake light switch is about 1/8" from the frame so I may add some rubber to keep it insulated.

Next I began to bleed the brakes. I started at the passenger side rear wheel cylinder. The bleeder looked dirty so I took it out and cleaned it. Put it back in loose and added a clear hose to a plastic bottle to catch the excess fluid. Pumped and pumped the brakes. Kept topping off the master cylinder but it would overflow quickly. Made a big mess in the driveway.

I took the bleeder out all the way and fluid started coming out. I had my wife pump the brakes while I tightened the bleeder. Hopefully that will be good enough to get the air out.

Moved on to the rear driver's side. That was uneventful. The bleeder worked fine on that one.

Noticed a leak where the rear rubber hose meets the center hard line. A 1/2 turn seems to have taken care of the leak.

Finally did the front wheels. That was also uneventful, but not easy to get a wrench on the bleeders.

Screwed the lid back on the master cylinder using adjustable pliers (is there a better tool?)

Tried the brakes and it felt firm. I couldn't really stand on them because I was pretty dirty and didn't want to sit in the car like that. It went about a quarter of the way down before feeling firm.

That's enough for today!

Progress again! Those manual brakes always feel a bit loose compared to power, see if it holds pressure for awhile in use and then if you want you can adjust the pedal travel to your liking. You want a little travel because you need the leverage when you push, no touching the pedal with your toes on these.

Properly adjusted, I've found my manual brakes on my '54 to have excellent stopping power. Sure, it takes a bit move pedal travel than my modern cars, but for sure not labored.

Just remember, they are not self adjusting brakes, so need to be adjusted perodically to take up the wear.

I just the Napa Professional brakes shoes. I think they cross references to some 70's trucks.

Also, my '54 has smaller drums than your '52 has. But I replaced everything in my brake system, expect that 3 way outlet block, since the lines were completely clogged with white powder/ rusty sludgey goo.

I had non-power brakes on my 55 Clipper. They replaced the power brake set up the car came with originally. I did not want to deal with the BTV system. Also, I liked the pedal modulation over the sensitive power brakes.

(o{}o)