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Ultramatic Question
#1
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JD in KC
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Ok, long story short...
Last year I replaced the pan gasket and a seal on the transmission case of my Ultramatic. Because I replaced the seal I had to re-adjust the internal linkage to the shift lever. I followed the manual assuming I have an early [1949] Ultramatic. The manual said the valve body was supposed to stick out 3/4". I couldn't get it out that far so I adjusted it as far out as it would go. The new seal and gasket stopped all leaking from the area behind the torque converter. Shortly after arriving at a local car show, I attempted to back the car up and it bucked like a bronco. This was not a problem before I messed with the selector adjustment so I figured that's a likely candidate as the source of the bucking problem. For the remainder of the Kansas City car season, I just avoided backing up... always fun.

I went back to the manual and Service Counselors and found that there was a change in adjustment from 3/4" to 5/16". This change was announced in a bulletin dated February 9, 1950. But... this was after my car was built.

I crawled back under the old girl this morning to get the transmission serial number to see if I can figure out what's going on.

Crap! The serial number of my transmission is 217124. I think that number indicates that the transmission is out of an Eight [10 plate vs 12 plate] and not meant for a Custom. The latest serial number I can find is 172205 and was used in a bulletin dated Feb 16, 1951. That would mean that if the serial numbers are strictly sequential, the transmission is probably out of a mid-'51 or early-'52 Eight.

I'm going to open up the transmission again to re-adjust back to 5/16" but I was just wondering if anyone here knows just what this transmission came from (and should I worry that it's sitting behind a 356)?

Thanks

Posted on: 2014/8/1 14:42
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Re: Ultramatic Question
#2
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Ross
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I believe the 3/4 measurement was for the early valve bodies that were sand cast. I have only ever seen one of those. The 5/16 measurement was for all the later cars with the die cast valve body; I am sure that will solve your problem.

Bathtubs with Ultras are confined to Ultras from bathtubs because of the use of a splined output shaft for the slip joint unless your drivshaft has been converted and contains the slip joint within itself. That said, it is no problem to mix and match cases, bell housings, and much of the internals all the way up through mid 54. You could have any combination of internals by now.

Don't lose any sleep about how many clutch discs you have unless you regularly shift from L to H under load. The 10 pack will do just fine. Refrain from towing travel trailers or having the car fitted with a snow plow to earn winter income.

Posted on: 2014/8/1 15:58
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Re: Ultramatic Question
#3
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JD in KC
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Thanks Ross. That helps. I've only put the car into low gear once (to make sure it had one). I hope to drop the pan and make the re-adjustment this weekend. I'll post the results.

Posted on: 2014/8/1 17:22
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Re: Ultramatic Question
#4
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JD in KC
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I did get back to the Ultramatic this past weekend.

Saturday:
Dropped the pan with the car up on jacks. With Type 'F' transmission fluid running down my arms I loosened the link clamp bolt, re-adjusted the control linkage so the the rear land of the control valve was sticking out of the rear of the control body exactly 5/16", re-tightened the link clamp bolt. Buttoned it back up tightened all 21 screws and re-filled the transmission. Did anybody pick up on the obvious step I missed? Cleaned myself up and started the car. I then realized I had made the adjustment with the car in Park (it has to be in reverse). I had no detentes in the shift at all. The gear lever just slid from park to reverse with no hesitation at all. The transmission didn't particularly like this arrangement. So...

Sunday:
Back up on jacks, re-drain the transmission, drop the pan, re-align the control valve to the requisite 5/16" after making sure the detente thingee is in the reverse position, re-adjust the gear shift indicator so it points at reverse for which I was now positive the transmission was correctly set. Put the whole thing back together.

Result:
Eureka! As Ross predicted and I hoped, all is working well. No more bucking in reverse. High is High, Low is Low and the starter lockout switch is also in sync with all the rest. I'm a happy (but physically very sore) camper.

Posted on: 2014/8/5 13:49
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Re: Ultramatic Question
#5
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Randy Berger
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Even those of us who never make mistakes can feel your pain.

Posted on: 2014/8/5 14:42
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