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Can anyone tell me a source for a remote master brake cylinder fill kit, or reservoir? I can tell that once the fender goes on the romance will be gone from checking the brake fluid.

I don't know of any remote fillers. Those cylinders need to have some air in their reservoirs to function properly, so I'm not sure they would take to a higher-mounted remote filler. You are absolutely correct about the unromantic nature of brake fluid level checking. I don't know how others may do it, but I have to lie on the ground under the cylinder and check it using a flashlight and mirror or use a finger as a dipstick. Adding fluid is equally unromantic; I use a hand pump oiler with a flexible spout, stopping and checking frequently to make sure I'm not overfilling.

Surely this has to be one of the most inaccessibly-located maintenance items ever, with the Ultramatic dipstick location a close second. Even with a lift I don't think it would be any easier to get a direct view of the brake fluid level. Why they didn't have an easily-removable section in the fresh air duct directly above the master cylinder is a mystery to me. I'll be watching this topic to see if anyone has some better ideas on this.

If JW sees this post, he has the name of a fellow near him (or maybe he is a member of the Texas Packard club) that sells a kit. Big Kev bought one and I believe has photos of the uninstalled kit in his blog. If JW doesn't catch your post you might PM him for the info.

As to needing some air, I am not sure they do as long as the upper reservoir is vented. Packards remote kit was a glass jar mounted to the firewall above the engine with a solid tube connection to bottom reservoir. That kept the master reservior filled at all times.

Good morning,
I bought a remote brake fluid reservoir last year for my '56 Patrician from:

Dr. Wendall Spreadbury
7437 E ST HWY 21
Nacogdoches, TX 75961-2514

I have neither a phone number or email address, but his reply to my inquiry by snail-mail came within a week. The unit is cast aluminum and mounts on the firewall with 2 screws. a replacement sealed cap for the MC is provided. That cap has a piece of metal tubing sticking out of its top for connection to the reservoir using a piece of flexible brake line (not provided in the kit). The cap on the reservoir contains the vent hole that was formerly in the MC cap. I don't remember exactly the cost, but it was around $100.00 + or - and did the job nicely.

Years ago I had a 1955 Willys Bermuda that had a factory remote reservoir. You can drill out your cap and solder the air vent to make a similar one. Here is the Willys:
http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2011/05/1955Willys_03_700.jpg
Bernie

ere are a few pics of OEM glass jar type. I have located glass jars now all I need to do is get time to make a copy

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Be nice if you could repro those. I'll bet there would be a market.

First time I've seen any close up photos so kind of surprised how simple it was. Doesn't appear they secured the bottom jar support to the bracket assy. Wonder if many were found laying on a workbench after the car left the shop.

Quote:

Dr. Spreadbury's home phone number is 936-569-2514 (given with prior permission).

This BTV remote reservoir subject intrigues me. I have read through many threads here with BTV info,concerns, and rebuild instructions along with info from other sources. Taking the "displacement" operation of this system into account, I would like to make a few observations and suggest one addition which may add an extra level of safety. Examining this master cyl arrangement, I agree with those who have already stated there are 2 critical areas in this hydraulic system-the compensating valve seal and the plunger cup seal and these need to maintain 100 percent seal every time the pedal is depressed to provide brake pressure. I hope these parts are being manufactured new, with new materials as delivered in the rebuild kits, and in no circumstances are NOS (new old stock) parts being used in these locations as a tear or failure here will result in instant pedal to floor no brakes with no amount of pumping to facilitate any pedal pressure whatsoever. Decades old rubber in a package,even if never used in service should not be trusted here and may explain some members multiple failures after rebuilds.
While there is no way to "see" the condition of the compensator valve rubber condition while in service there may be a way to keep an eye on the plunger cup seal operation and give early indication of a possible developing issue. As stated on another thread, the air space and the vent passage leading from the rear of the plunger cup seal to the cap sealing surface should be air, not brake fluid and discussion of the cover gasket condition and seal to the cover around that port would be of importance in a high mount resevoir retrofit. Adding this (upgrade) without knowledge of the cover seal condition around this port may leat to brake fluid flowing into the vent passage and behind the seal thus creating fluid infiltration into the vacuum canister and seal failure.
Ideally, removal of the lid and replacement with the cast style and a new lid gasket along with the retrofit cap and tube and remote fill may be prudent. As an addition, wouldn't It be great to drill and install a small brass nipple in the cap right above the vent port and attach a clear 1/16th tube run up the fire wall (ie small engine fuel suppply tube) to ensure air in the vent and create a quick visual upon opening the hood that there is no brake fluid bypassing the plunger rear cup seal. I do not believe the opinion suggested here that a visual of the level in the remote resevoir can be an indication of the cup seal state of health due to the volume of fluid in the container. A tip off of a larger leak in a wheel cylinder maybe, but a small leak in the btv may not be picked up before fluid has already migrated into and done damage to the vacuum canister especially with variations in temperature and level in the resevoir. Any thoughts?
As someone who has not had a "pedal to floor" failure of my btv I am not yet a emphatic "replace or else" member yet as some are here. May I ask, is it the compensator valve seal or the cup seal that is causing the "pedal to floor" more often or is that still not determined. Since the compensator is held "cocked" off its seat all the time the pedal is up, would it be smart to replace this every 5 years since it seems this can be done without removal of the whole unit through the top with cover off or even to chock the pedal just off the stop with the battery removed while in winter storage or will this create problems in the vacuum canister section of the unit. If someone can add a link to the thread with the cover gaskets discussed earlier it may be of help. Dan

Does this style remote fill maintain an air spacein the master? if so it would have to be air tight at the lid and fittings?