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I have been ask many questions on what I did. Here is a video I put together.

It is very amateur and I do misspeak a few times but for the do it yourself novice, I think you will get the jest of it.

Hope it helps


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YihcFokMMnA

Fixed that, Now public.

Nice job Troy. When you are ready to begin the TV broadcast let me know. Tell the wife no runnung in the shop though-ins regs. lol

I agree with everything you did and with a magnetic dial ind and an inch lb and ft lb tq wrenches the rebuild can be accurately accomplished. I used to keep the assembly bearings for the 4-5 diffs I would normally see and the carrier spreader was a shop tool. Ill bet most dont know those holes are for a tool with threaded expansion collar to spread the rear. with a cartridge roll and die grinder the bearings can be made assem bearings slip fit instead of press and a good cleaning in parts washer. (Your terminology dummy bearings). After the whole process you showed, I would always then set my pinion bearings preload and side carrier preload and make 1 last backlash check and gear pattern check and i would suspect this would help bring the pattern a little closer to centered heel to toe. I think some members here would benefit from the actual setting of the pinion preload as I read on another thread here there is some confusion on the subject. I will try to post a verbal exp.

I do have a second video setting the pinion preload, I want to redo it for a better explanation setting the preload torque and final backlash. I will try to redo that latter this week.

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I was reading on another thread a while back a discussion on rear diff ring gear backlash and bearing preload and there seemed to be some confusion on these and questions on setting them and one question I remember was ,"how can the pinion nut torque be set to 250 ft lbs and the tapered pinion bearing preload be 12-15 INCH lbs." Though it does sound counter intuitive this is indeed a typical and correct setting for many rear ends.

As Troy showed in his video Ring gear backlash is the clearance between the dry ring and pinion and is verified with the magnetic dial indicator on the tip of a ring gear tooth right where he showed it and holding the pinion steady with a light quick rock of the ring back and fourth to get a reading. This is a light touch quick rock just to touch the gear faces together. If the pinion moves during this check the reading is incorrect. Bearing preload is drawing 2 tapered bearings on an hub,shaft or housing toward each other until there is no play(slop) and then drawing them tighter an additional amount to create rotational friction(drag) "preloading" the bearings so when they wear in (seat) there will be NO slop during operation. There must never be any play in diff bearing sets or diflection and gear fracture or damage will result. The bearings and races must be new or in a condition showing no scoring,pitting,corrosion etc and must be fully seated on their housing or gear by press or if using hammer and drift, until they"ring". Preload is accomplished on the pinion by the pinion nut drawing the bearings together by crushing a crush collar or against a solid sleeve and selectable shims and on the ring carrier by shims or threaded adj spanners.

Usually when tightening the pinion nut the 2 bearing inner races contact the crush collar with an eighth inch or so slop and great force(280-300ft lb) must be exerted by the pinion nut to start the collar to crush and then once it bellows in the center 180- 240 or so ft lbs will continue to crush the collar to draw the bearings up to zero play (no slop) then small turns of the nut will increase preload incrimentaly while taking a rotational drag reading with a inch lb wrench between each slight turn until manufacturers spec is reached sometimes sans the drag of the seal . Then the nut is removed and the yoke is tapped off and the seal is installed and the yoke reinstalled and a new nut put on and torqued to manufac spec. This is how the nut torque may be very high while preload is inch lbs .Hope this helps. And someone may want to foward this to the member with the yoke failure, in Austrailia I think he was. It can be done at home diy as long as there is no slop in the pinion before disassembly and no roughness,noise grind etc the bearings and the rest of the diff should be servicable so with a makeshift pinion holding tool and breaker bar he may remove the pinion nut(its tight remember), tap off the yoke, replace yoke with nos or polish the seal surface on the used one, install a new seal,yoke and new nut a dab of locktight non permenent and tighten to 140 150 160 without disturbing bearing preload and no chance of the nut coming loose. I have done it many times with good results. Though manufacturers usually have 2 specs for preload, 1 for new and 1 for run in bearings I found it best to replace any questionablebearings and races and use the new bearing spec. If performing a service ie renewing burnt posi clutches and bearings were good and no play I would make NO adjustments to run in bearings. Shims back from where removed and pinion nut seated to collar(no additional crush. If this info does not make sence, do not service a differential. Refer to a specialist.

Just a side note, as kids working with pop we always tapped the races into the hub+rotor, or drum,packed the new bearings,put em in with a new wheel seal and while spinning the rotor on the spindle- tightened slightly the nut with a crescent and backed off-snugged again and backed off all the while spinning the rotor to seat the bearings and roll thru the grease film then loosen the nut, tighten finger tight then BACK OFF the nearist cotterpin hole . The last full frame roadsmashers and cads with ABS and RWD had the antilock reluctor ring on the hub/rotor and the service info was to do all the above then finger tighten then TIGHTEN the wheel nut to align the cotterpin hole. Seems they were more concerned with sensor to reluctor ring air gap then the additional heat created by the preload.

Sorry to be long winded. Typed off site and pasted and when I do that no spaces or indentations come in on the paragraphs. I need to make sure to add em in so as not to be accused of "rant" or rambling" by someone LOL. no need to get back to the Giant game now!

Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this informative video. Great video and discussion thread, but why is it posted in the Pre-war Section? I think it would be more beneficial if it were in the V-8 Section.

We agree that it is a mistake to press off the lock ring with the bearing, but why is it okay to press it on? Seems the same damage would occur. My experience is to heat the lock ring and then drop it into place where it will firmly seat after cooling.

(o{}o)

dont know how it got there, Maybe Big Kev can put it where it belongs.

Although I didnt cover that, Yes, always heat (properly) bearings and lock rings for insertion. Also put Races in the Freezer to shrink before installation.

I use an induction heater but a hot plate on low will work well also.