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Jim L,
I wouldn't try to guess at what would cause it. Could be dirt ( If the engine has never been worked on before.) or maybe wrong Plunger Cylinder. The reason I say that is because I found two stuck in my engine and the engine had been rebuilt before I got it. The engine had sat for so long that some of the springs for the Plunger Cylinder had no spring left in them. I don't know maybe someone else would know if there were different sizes of Hyd. Lifters from other engines and when someone would look at them they looked close enough to work, but didn't and that's why you have one stuck and one loose (or maybe it's just worn out from lack of oil).
Just food for thought.
Also be careful not to crack the block.
Wes

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As far as the history of the car goes, I know that it set for a number of years before being towed in to a repair shop which was told to "Make it run." It was clacking pretty loud when I bought it so I had it towed to my mechanic who, among other things, did a valve job on it. When they were done it was still "tapping" but not as loud. Sometimes when being driven for an extended length of time, it does get quieter.

As far as the two troublesome lifters go I can offer this about the loose one. While it may have been oil starved in the past, it certainly isn't now. When I pulled it out, it had an almost uniform coating of oil from top to bottom.

As for the stuck one, aside from being stuck, it seems to be working just fine and although I only have useful hearing in one ear (too many Discos and other assorted night life in the '70s), I don't think that one was making any noise. Even with the stethoscope I think it was pretty quiet. Not so one 2 valves down.

So what would be the danger or downside of just putting it back together and see, or should I say hear, if there is any difference?

And does anyone have any favorite "tricks" or "Chilton Time Saver" tips about putting the keepers back on the valves?

Thanks Wesley and everyone for your help.

As far as reinstalling the keepers, I no longer use the special tool designed for this; instead I just put a small dab of grease on the inside of the keeper which holds it quite securely. But just in case, don't forget to block the oil return holes should one come loose.

Jim L,
All you can do is try and as long as the plunger has a push back pressure, it might not hurt to wait until you have to pull the engine one day.
As far as keepers on the valve stems, rags in the holes, heavy grease to hold them on the shaft as you slowly release the spring. Also a small mirror and light to double check that they're seating right.
Oh, and a lot of work by feel!
Wes
P.S. As OD says " He can type fast then me."

Wesley and O_D my thanks to you both once again. You've been great.

As for the stuck lifter, I think your suggestion, Wesley, is exactly what I'll do. If I was going to drive cross-county, it would be a different story but for the little driving I do and since I know what it going on I just don't see the need. I'm reminded of what General Allenby in the movie "Lawrence of Arabia" said when the British entered Bagdad in WWI. When he was told of a situation and that they "just couldn't do nothing", General Alenby said "Why not?" "It's usually best".

The plunger in the stuck lifter can be pushed all the way to the bottom with effort and rebounds nicely when pressure is removed. And if it "ticks" I'll know what's ticking and why - which is more than I did before.

Thank you again,

Jim

I had it towed to my mechanic who, among other things, did a valve job on it

Perhaps this has been asked and answered before, but can we assume the person who did the valve job followed the shop manual and checked (and adjusted where necessary) the valve stem clearance? This is an essential part of a valve job on the hydraulic lifter L8 engines. A special gauge block and feeler gauges are required to establish or verify the required 0.030" to 0.070" clearance.

I left them my FSM and I know that they joined this group when the started on the car. As to the specifics of your question, I really don't know. I know that the owner of the shop is old enough to be familiar with I-8's & flat heads. The rest of the crew had never seen one. That was changed when another long time customer of his came in, saw the Packard, and brought his 1926 Cadillac in for work.

I saw and read about the procedure in the link that Wesley posted but I really don't know if they did or not. I suspect Owen (the owner) knew about it. I'll have to ask.

The chattering seems to be getting louder in my Clipper. I took it to a local hot rod shop (these guys are very good with engines and truly like Packards, so don't worry about me turning the Bumblebee into a rod) where one of the guys used a stethoscope to the valve covers and low and behold, we located the likely culprit. I hope I can resolve this problem by simply adjusting the lash, but now I am not so sure. A question: Have any of you out there used Clay Smith cams in your Packards? I am intrigued by the idea.

If you are talking about your 1955 Clipper Constellation, then there is no lash adjustment for the valves. In the late 1950s and early 1960s my father fitted some Packard V-8s with adjustable push rods. Perhaps this is what you are thinking of when you ask about lash adjustment? I believe the clearances he used were very small maybe .002" for intakes and .004 for exhaust.

(o{}o)