Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi 50 2382,
There's a lot of good information, here and a lot of different ways to go. But as stated, cables is a good place to start. Just because they look good doesn't mean they are (Plus if they aren't bad it's never bad to keep them as a backup.)and good fresh correct size battery. Also check the connections at both ends of the cables. Next since the car is new to you and it's been setting awhile drop the oil pan and clean out that old oil. Next I would get a leak down checker (I think Harbor Freight has them.) and check each cylinder. If you don't find any major problems go out and buy some new spark plugs and gap them before installing. Since the guy said it ran before, just been awhile take your time. I would disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the fuel pump and run a hose to a safe gas can just to see if I could get her started. After a couple of cranks, you should see gas squirt from the jets in the carburetor, this will be your first sign that at least the fuel pump is pumping some fuel and could still be good.
I think this would be a good starting point for you, just remember the car has been sitting for awhile take your time.
Just my two cents.
Wes
P.S. Good looking car.

Wow!

Lots of great suggestions. I am encouraged by the fact that low readings don't necessarily mean I'm stuck with a broken engine. I also forgot to block the carb open during the compression test so I will recheck today after I purge the MMO from the cylinders.

I agree that the cables from the battery need to be replaced they are the heavy duty ones but who knows where these have been. The engine cranks OK, though. I think I'll pull the starter and clean the ground connection to the block.

I have already:
1. replaced the distributor cap
2. replaced the rotor
3. replaced the points and condenser (checked gap)
4. replaced the coil
5. replaced the plug wires (plugs are new and gaped)
6. charged the battery
7. cleaned the cable and battery terminals (both ends)
8. cleaned the jumper strap from the solenoid to the starter
9. checked for good blue spark across the plug gap.
10. checked the distributor #1 position against the damper mark. (close enough, and it is on the compression stroke)
11. discovered the lousy PO installed electric fuel pump that seems to have over pressurized the carb (the carb gets wet outside, so I'm getting a kit to rebuild).
12. can't see any squirt from the accelerator pump.
13. used starting fluid and dumped gas down the carb. No joy.
14. discovered that the mech. fuel pump is not connected so a kit is coming to rebuild that.

At this point I think it is either compression or fuel delivery.

I'm spending a lot of time undoing stuff that the PO did to "make it run again".

At this point the battery is in backwards but the fuel gauge reads correctly, so until I can get the engine running I'm not messing with the battery, but I will turn it around and rewire the coil when I do. UNLESS you think I should do it now...open for suggestions. (I have a 6v pos ground '51 Ford pickup that purrs so I'm not unfamiliar with the quirks of a positive ground system).

Thanks again for all the great input...

I also forgot to block the carb open during the compression test so I will recheck today

You may well be pleased with the results after a retest with the throttle and choke valves wide open. Crank at least 3 compression cycles before recording the value.

I'm assuming it turns by hand and the pistons are going up and down.
If it's cranking fast enough to give good spark on the outside and you dump a little gas down the intake and it doesn't try to fire, you're not getting spark (or air) in the cylinders. Plugs got wet, grounding issue, etc. or timing is way off.
Your list didn't say new plugs, but that's a good cheap place to start and wires too.
Check they're no stoppage in the intake/exhaust. I had mice plug off the air cleaner on my motorhome one winter. Had it towed in when it wouldn't start got laughed at by the mechanics. Vermin or rust partly plugged the exhaust pipe on this Packard and we blew out the muffler when we got it fired. Take an air hose and blow everything out.
Sounds like what I call old-guy-itis, (even though I'm one) he's screwed around with it, couldn't get it going, so he quit on it and eventually sold it - like my Cad.
Sounds like carb rebuild time also if no squirt. But it should start on the bottle just die out when the gas goes, if carb doesn't take over. The accel plunger seal is leather and dries out.
Take your time you'll find many more faults going forward.
ps:I was reading my Cad V8 diag manual for another problem and there's a test where you run it on two cylinders at a time, so they'll "run" with just two cylinders firing even unevenly, maybe less.

Well the saga continues....today I replaced all the plugs and checked the spark, good. Just for grins I shot a light down the carb barrels....I found about 1/2" of gas pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold...this car is so flooded that I could swim in the gas...not that I'd want to! So I'll now wait for my carb kit to arrive while I sop out the gas...
More later.

I didn't see anything about replacing the battery cables, I had a similar problem. I could see gas pooling, checked my spark with the plugs removed and had good spark. I though that maybe the starter was going out and not able to crank it fast enough. But before pulling the starter I decided to make a new set of cables, which is a lot easier. Put the new cables on and was just looking to see if there was any different in it cranking and all of a sudden it fired up. Although the old cables didn't look bad the new ones did the trick.
Wes

If there is as mucch gas laying in the intake as u claim then beware that the MUFFLER mite also be flooded with fuel. Great risk of blowing out the muffler.
I've blown up a few over the years due to severe flooding.

Ooooh...good suggestion...I'll be rebuilding the carb this week and before I start it up I'll check the muffler...new battery cables are also coming although I have the large diameter cables, new ones are a cheap bit of insurance.

Assuming the fuel presence is from the pump overwhelming the float, just rebuilding won't necessarily solve the pressure issue. It may need to be regulated/return line. The float seat just may not have shut off due to dirt, residue, dry elastomer, etc.
Make sure the cylinders/manifolds are dry. No residual oil or gas in the combustion chamber.
If the carb is not filled, only need about 20cc, <2 tbsp of liquid gas, down the carb throat to start. Give it a half a minute to spread out and vaporize before you crank it. I use a 60cc syringe, and they usually fire on the first and start/run on the second or third dose if they're going to start. That's enough fuel to spin it up to get the fuel to the carb with a mechanical pump. If it tries to start, repeat once and if it's much more than that it won't run as is.
Gas like most hydrocarbons only burns in a narrow range in air. Once it's (super rich) over the UFL it won't ignite at all. You have to air it out at that point. You also have to limit the fuel so you don't ignite it too rich and carbon off the spark plugs. That's one reason they spark outside when clean and dry but don't after you put them in the cylinders. Light oil will also burn/soot.
Turn it by hand. It should not take alot of effort until you reach compression stroke. If not, somethings stuck.
Crank it with starter first for 30 seconds or so with no fuel and coil wire off to make sure it's turning fast enough and get the oil pressure up before introducing fuel. That will tell if you have battery / cable / starter / oil pressure or other binding issues. Once all the electrical signals are good, motor turns freely, it should fire easily. It may not run well but it should start even if it's got issues.