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Re: Magnumatic washer pump and heater valve
#21
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Jim McDermaid
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One quick pulse of the button and the rest is fully automatic.

The pump delivers one full stroke of water to the nozzles for say 3 or so seconds.

As soon as water is spraying the wipers start automatically and continue several wipes past the end of water spraying.

There is an adjustment on the coordinator unit that sets the time delay for the after wipe.

My button is in the center of the wiper knob which is on the left side of the steering column. The wiper knob activates the wiper motor with a regular Bowden cable. The button closes a electrical contact.

The pump unit was easy to work on. There is a brass wire ring that can be removed with bare hands and allows the two sections to seperate. Just hold it together with your hands so as not to launch the fragile parts.

I replaced the two seals on the pump piston which is easy. I did not remove the rivets or take apart the pump valve or the coordinator valve and mine works fine. I did take apart the solinoid and replaced the wires and the little disc valves inside.

My car had a complete pump unit but no rubber tubing was connected. The two wires were in place however. My wiper motor was the wrong type for a coordinator. I got a good working one from WiperMan.

There was a belief the wiper motor was supposed to be on a slight angle but it sits level in my 54 Cavalier and all is good.

There was a good bit of discussion on this forum about how this was supposed to work as well as lotsa pictures.

There are different versions of the Trico Pump that work differently but by 54 I am convinced I have the correct unit.


Jim

Posted on: 2014/11/19 19:05
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Re: Magnumatic washer pump and heater valve
#22
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d c
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Very good. I have the full picture now. I was wondering on multiple pulses of the pump or 1 cycle for full fluid delivery and you answered my question, thanks. My issue was the main spring as it has a rust spot on the second and the 12 coil bad enough to have caused a weak spring. I have ordered one and have some tips and tricks for testing the solenoid, coordinator and seals. Will post if all goes to plan.

Posted on: 2014/11/19 20:08
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Re: Magnumatic washer pump and heater valve
#23
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Jim McDermaid
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As I have had my washer working for two years now, I find it actually works quite well.

I had the same questions before I got mine going and I thought it would pump continiously but it does the job with one stroke.

I don't know what would happen if you held the button down.

I dont think it would deliver a complete stroke since as soon as the pistom moved the valve would admit suction again.

It works like my modern car where you hit the button and averything is automatic and if you need more hit the button again.

I am going to drain out my washer this coming weekend as we can get down to freezing in Phoenix AZ. I blow it out with air and lube the rubber seals with silicon grease.

Nobody sells antifreez washer fluid here.

I have never found water down in the vacuum side of my pump when I take it apart. I can see where the spring would rust unless the paint was in perfect condition.

When I first tried to get the wipers to wok the motor that was installed (wrong version) was 1/2 full of water.

I used to restore Player Piano's so I like Pneumatic things.

Jim

Posted on: 2014/11/20 10:42
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Re: Magnumatic washer pump and heater valve
#24
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d c
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Got the washer main spring in. It is a half inch shorter than the orig even with 2 collapsed coils on the orig from rust. It seems to be plated or some alloy of stainless not a painted color though it is not true non mag stainless shown by a magnets attraction to it. It does however have less pull on the magnet than the spring steel orig. II will post pics and a comparison of the functionality of these 2 and a ref to vendor and price and a ref to a vendor with 2 stainless versions. these are more pricey though.

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Posted on: 2014/11/22 19:32
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