Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:

Each pin gets one spring retaining disk so you have the correct number.

Edit: Also, the brake adjuster appears to be extended quite a bit. This may have contributed to the difficulty in removing the drum.

Edit 2: Howard pointed out to me that the parts manual shows two disks per pin so disregard my comment (the brake kits I purchased had one per pin).

And while going that far, you can change all seals, and check all bearings, especially rear's.

When I turned the star wheel 15 clicks like instructed I guess I went the wrong way. I need to get it back toward the middle of the spring I guess?

My 47 Custom Clipper had a slot on the outside of the brake drums. The slot was even with the inside surface of the drum. Rotating the drum would reveal the brake shoe lining. I used this slot and view of the linings when doing a major brake adjustment with the anchor pin. I could rotate the anchor and see how it was affecting the contact of the linings to the drum as the drum was rotated.

(o{}o)

I'm a complete idiot for forgetting. Anyway, I'm just now putting the bearing back in the hub and putting all back together. OK, you know how the bearing is slanted, right? So which way do I insert it into the hub? A pic would be great if anyone has one.
Thanks

On both of the bearings the small ends of the taper go to the inside of the hub. Strongly suggest you consult a service manual so as to reassembly the parts. The wheel bearing adjustment is critical, as is the amount of grease in the bearings, as is the installation of the grease seal. All of these parts are too critical to safety to not be done properly. Is there someone you know who can help you with this job? If so, strongly suggest asking them for help. I could help if you were in Austin. Please proceed with caution.

(o{}o)

I put it back together just the way it came off and everything is in good condition. I seated it, then backed it off, then tightened to about 4 lbs. The wheel turns by hand and it didn't before. I'll test drive it tomorrow.

....then tightened to about 4 lbs

That will be too tight and will ruin the bearings and races quickly, perhaps you missed the full directions given earlier? Go back to to post #35 for that info. After tightening to 4 ft-lbs, you should back off 1 hex and then to the next cotter pin hole.

OK, I'll redo it. Also, let me make sure I'm tightening the right one the right way. There is the nut that actually touches the bearing and pushes it into place, then the little circle washer thing with the holes in it, then the other nut that is on the outside that is nearest to the cotter pin. It doesn't address both nuts in the instructions/directions.

Sorry to oversimplify, you have a little more elaborate system than the system the service instructions correspond to, but the principle of setting the bearing is exactly the same. You tighten the inner nut which actually locates the bearing to 4 ft-lbs and back off one hex. The disc with the holes should have a key in it that fits the keyway in the spindle, and it is reversible to give alternative hole positions. You back off a bit more to align the nearest hole in the disc with the pin to establish and lock the position of the inner nut; loosen rather than tighten if you don't get an exact pin to hole match. The outer nut is just a lock nut; snug it up tight and install the cotter, it has no effect on the bearing adjustment.

Maybe someone else who actually has pictures can explain it better, but you apply the same principle as the later simplier design.