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Gentlemen,

I am getting ready to repaint my '41 110 Club Coupe and have decided on black for the color.

Question: Will I be better off using a single-stage paint rather then the usual basecoast/clearcot as far as getting a deeper color? My painter doesn't use laquer and I want to avoid that "plastic" look you get with clearcoat on top of black paint.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a single-stage black urethane finish? My goal is to get the deepest, laquer-like finish possible...the kind that looks like you could dive into it!

Thanks!

For solid colors many of the high-end restoration shops use single stage urethane as an alternative to lacquer; it will never give the depth of lacquer but comes close enough for many. IMO a far better choice than using base/clear coat to attempt to replicate the factory finish.

I think the single stage polyurethane is a good idea, but the quality of the finish will depend greatly on the subsequent sanding/buffing to take out orange peel.

Painted my car and fenders with SPI SS Black

These pictures are right after painting/straight out of the gun. Before wet-sanding and buffing
Tom's 31 fenders painted with SS Black

Thanks for your responses!

Is there any issue with durability on a single stage paint? I would imagine not having the added layer of clearcoat would make it much more succeptible to scratches and damage, but is there any reason why the paint would not adhere as strongly or last as long?

No problems with adhesion or durability as long as the proper prep is done. I had very good results with single stage urethane. I can personally vouch for eastwood off white and others. Remember black requires the most preperation as it shows all sins.

Not sure about Washington state (where your profile says you are from), but here in California they have very strict VOC limits. So if you are having a shop spray your car, you basically have two options.

1) Solvent based Single Stage.
2) Water Based Color with Solvent Based Clear over it.

The OEMs switched to Waterbased Colors years ago. With regulations in Europe leading the way.

A single stage paint job that is done correctly with quality materials, and properly maintained should last a very long time, and will look the most like an original paint lacquer paint job.

On top of that, typically, these cars are no longer used as daily transportation. So they dont see the constant road grime, wear and tear, sun, and bad weather that a daily driver does.

Quote : .. getting ready to repaint my '41 110 Club Coupe and have decided on black for the color.

Question: Will I be better off using a single-stage paint rather then the usual basecoast/clearcot as far as getting a deeper color? My painter doesn't use laquer and I want to avoid that "plastic" look you get with clearcoat on top of black paint.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a single-stage black urethane finish? My goal is to get the deepest, laquer-like finish possible...the kind that looks like you could dive into it!


May I ask are you ready to paint the car ie body work and prep is done and you are ready for paint or are you ready to start the whole process of prep, + paint? What are your plans for sanding stages and on what base? Are you aware of the recoat windows for the urethanes? Also it is a catalized product. All should be aware of the needed precautions and lung protection. I could not tell from your post if your guy was handling the whole process.

I have very little experience with shopping paint options, but I can tell you that my personal experience is that I haven't been particularly pleased with the single stage paint on my car. It was repainted several years ago with what most people today would call "the good stuff" but the paint is much softer than a modern base over clear would be. Every time I have to do any appreciable work under the hood, I end up having to re-polish the fenders because all the fender covers I've tried put micro-scratches into the paint. I also find that the paint chips easily. This could all be the result of aging or poor application way back when, but it still underscores the point -- you want the best job you can afford.

Wow. Not sure what "good stuff" you used but that has not been my experience at all. The paint when properly applied and mixed is durable. I have accidentally hit, tapped it on the surfaces and on edges as have my kids with plastic and metal objects (oops) and had no such issues. Once with a force that I was sure there would be paint damage and there was none. The only knnock on it is if urethane sees alot of sun and is outside 27-7 it will lose its luster but it can be buffed and repolished to renew. Most vintage cars are garaged when not in use so no issue.

Re post #4 Tom I glimpsed at the prices on the link on your post and although the clears are about the same as other vendors the single stage colors are 2 to 3 times other products and I see they still list 2 to 3 coat coverage. If those who feel there is excessive orange peel and extensive color sanding and buffing required with the less expensive options some adj to gun settings and reducers would be advised .I assure you you can get dynamic depth,gloss and sheen from 120 dollar a gallon products right out of the gun if prep has been done properly. If you want 3 coats and hand cut n buff to show quality this can be achieved also.