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Re: Battery Disconnect
#11
Home away from home
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39SixSedanMan
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HH56, Su8OD, and OD, you guys never miss a pitch. I have to work hard to keep up with you.

Yes, I'll post some photos of the underside of the switch, cover plate and cable routing when I can.

Some text details however: I always use 00 gauge cable for the reasons cited above. I'd like to think I've saved many a friends' cars from the 12v conversion by simply replacing battery cables with that of correct or better (00)gauge. Same goes for generators, starters and regulators regarding the lesson of clean, tight and ampere capable connections on both the hot and ground sides of the circuit.

To fit the taller battery group without electrical hazard concerns, I've lowered the battery box a bit, actually had a replacement made by a local sheet metal fellow who added the correct beading and mount bends. Unless you measure it, you can't tell it is different.

Regarding the switch circuit, it is best to put the switch to the ground side of the cabling, similar to anytime a battery is disconnected. This way, any unintentional touches of the either of the terminals to frame or other metal results in nothing, instead of high current.

I have nothing against the Optima batteries, but with this system, my 'old tech' 6 volt batteries have always outlived their rated durable lives.

Pat

Posted on: 2015/3/16 11:13
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Re: Battery Disconnect
#12
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Owen_Dyneto
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One nice feature of the mid-30s and earlier senior cars was that the floor of the battery box was adjustable for height as the battery was meant to be installed from below, thus the floor is on threaded rods which can be lowered or raised. On some models the battery box has a large enough cover to permit a large Group 4 to be dropped in from above; on others like a 35/36 convertible it must be installed from below.

Posted on: 2015/3/16 13:55
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