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I agree with Tim on pulling the front clip or nose. I had bare frame. Trying to lift an engine high enough to clear the grill and fenders is a non starter with my cherry picker and even if it could, IMO an accident or damage waiting to happen. Even lifting that much weight as high as needed just to clear the front crossmember while car is on jackstands is not something I want to do often.

I also have a HF load balancer and maybe the same one. It is about 2' long with a crank on one end and a chain link ring in the center to attach to the hoist or cherry picker hook. I bought open chain links of the type where a small barrel screws over an opening in the link to close it tightly. Used one on each end of the balancer to attach to the straps. 3/8 links would fit my balancer but the strap ends were a bit too much bulk for that size so went to 1/2 diameter links. Those were slightly too large to get in the balancer so I did have to open the center of the attachment points on the balancer slightly so the link threaded portion would insert thru the chain X slots.

I've used chains previously but did not want to on this last engine, Chose to use cargo straps or slings under the engine. Those were also from HF.http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-x-6-ft-6400-lb-capacity-web-sling-95626.html The straps do require a bit of playing around with to get the exact drape you are comfortable with but are short enough that the engine does not have a lot of room to move. As mentioned, one in the rear that was held in place nicely by the bellhousing and oil pan. The one in front I chose to use the slide bolts so it wouldn't move or slide as the engine was maneuvered.

With two of us it went smoothly. We had it in place and bolted in less than an hour..

Good move on getting the load leveler. I do not have one and you can see the crazy steep angle I ended up with getting my engine and trans out in the pic below. This is a later car with an Ultramatic, but the length is only a little longer than you are dealing with. The tail of the trans kept getting hung up on the bracing and steering bar.

Caution on straps. I used some 5,000 lb tow straps that were a nylon type material. I noticed that near the oil pan, it was beginning to get cut into. I would get the fabric style next time as I believe they are more durable.

I was able to do this by myself, but it was no fun, at least in 30 degree weather.

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Ouch. That looks too much like adventure. Are those 6" straps. They look a bit longer and draped slightly differently than I did mine so I didn't have anywhere near that angle. The Ultra may be only a tiny bit longer but it is definitely heavier than the OD setup by 100 lbs so that may also have affected the distribution. The HF straps I used are woven something and reinforced with polyester according to the propaganda sheet. Rated for 6400 each. I was careful to watch where there might be any sharp edges but that is a valid concern.

Yes it was a little stressful but at that point, I didn't care! Just wanted it done. I had a chain also that I bolted to the drivers side engine mount in a hole near the engine. I was going to bolt it to the passenger side after I started lifting, but my bolt was too thick to fit in the area the mount attaches and the one I used on the drivers side was taken on the passenger side.

A load leveler would have made a big difference.

Why didn't you pick it up on the head bolts?

Good info on the straps. I will pick some up from HF.

Regarding the chain, I was also considering attaching to the head bolts. What are the pros and cons and what head bolts do to recommend bolting up to to get the level correct.

Also...how tough is it to remove the front clip?

I can't remember which exact bolts on the head were used but a friend made brackets to go under the nuts for the chain to attach. I picked a couple as close to the rear as I could get and still not have interference with the chain to any of the body structure. Another toward the front so as to have a bit of stability. Maybe someone else can give you a better idea.

As to removing the clip, it is somewhat of a process. I haven't done it on a 22-23 series but expect it is similar to 21st. Once unbolted, It can be lifted as one piece by using a minimum of two and preferable 4 people. It is heavy and bulky. You may be able to rig a hoist but above all it is important to keep both sides straight and in same alignment when lifting and carrying so there is no stress or twist put on the pot metal portions of grill.

Going from memory here so hopefully I don't forget anything major. On a 21st you have to remove the front bumper, disconnect main loom headlight wiring from the left fender and disconnect the hood release linkages on both sides. Check for anything else -- maybe heater hoses and air ducts on those models. Not sure if yours has a chrome strip on the very bottom over the rocker panel that has to come off -- or at least loose from the fender portion. 2106 does.

The inner splashers are all bolted together so can stay bolted to fender but lower one does have to unscrew from the frame -- 6 or 7 bolts on each side -- and then both splashers have to unscrew from the radiator cradle on each side.

Inside the car the kick panels remove and there are 4 or 5 bolts thru the body. Depending on how bad the rust those nuts may present a challenge so using some penetrating oil well in advance of removal attempt is advised. They are sort of a carriage bolt and head is only held in a sheetmetal slot by a clip. No access so if they are badly rusted the head will spin and you have to get creative to get the nut inside the car off. Slightly offset nut splitters work well on most but there is one that is a tough access. Once all are loose be careful opening and closing doors. The fender may want to bow out a bit and paint can get nicked.

Assuming those bolts are loose, then on the bottom rear wheelwell of each fender at the cowl is another potential rusted bolt. After those are out or broken off then I believe the bolt at top of cowl and those on top of radiator cradle should be all that is left. Unbolt those and unless I have forgotten something one or two people on each side can lift up and carry the assy forward to a storage place.. Hopefully you have a lot of space because it does take up some room.

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Hi All,

THANK YOU for all of your suggestions.

I pulled the engine and transmission (as one unit) out today and it was not that big of a project. As a matter of fact I did it single handed.

The keys to making this project easier were the following:

-The back of the car was jacked up high enough to get the back tires 12 inches off of the ground and this allowed me to get underneath while the nose down slope of the car allowed me to get the transmission out without having to slope the tailshaft downward too far.

-I removed the two horns and also the radiator shroud support (by drilling out the spot weld see photo of dimple I make prior to drilling). I will bolt in the support after I reinstall the engine.

-I should have first removed the grille but was able to get the job accomplished without breaking anything (the transmission tail shaft got very close however). When I put the engine/transmission back in I will first remove the grille.

-I made some "L" brackets and bolted them onto the center head bolts and used a Harbor Freight engine leveler. I was able to connect the leveler to my "L" brackets with only two chain links so as to reduce the distance because my cherry picker only raises barely high enough.

-I kept the fan and generator installed on the engine however when I reinstall the engine and trans (as a unit) I will not have the fan nor generator installed because the fan hit the load leveler when I had the engine at a high pitch up and the generator hit the radiator shroud support as the engine was swinging so I do not want to scratch it on the way back in.

Anyhoo...I attached some pictures to show some of the lessons learned during this endevour.

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Nicely done and glad you didn't have to remove the front clip. It is nice having a shorter and wider opening to squeeze thru. Not an option on earlier cars with high fenders and narrow grills with my cherry picker. The chain links and brackets you made look like a perfect combo. I didn't want to mess up the head bolt torque and new paint so elected for straps. Both concerns turned out to be a waste because I had to mess with several bolts anyway to mount various components which go under the nuts on the 47 engine.

Hi Bill:

I'm about to remove my 288 from the 23rd series I own. How did you find the spot welds...? Sandpaper etc?
How did you release the transmission?
Thanks,
Mark