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Hi Folks...
Just took my 49 Deluxe 8 out for her first spin, Sunday. Lots of work left to do, but needed to make her run. All went well, but when slowing down and downshifting into second gear there is no "back-wrap". It acts as if the clutch fails to re engage. I did not attempt to accelerate, at that point. I simply braked to a stop. She had (not since I owned it) an electromatic clutch. Is this some "magic" characteristic of the beast. It seems nearly impossible for the clutch not to re-engage, when the pedal is released.
Thanks for any help!
Boodog

Unsure from your description if the car has the electric clutch or not. If not then problem is mechanical so I'd check linkage for binding, disconnection or jam.

If the car has the Electromatic and all pieces are present, connected and working then If the car suddenly started with the clutch pedal moving on its own I would check to see if the switch was accidentally turned on. With the switch off the car is a total manual operation as if the Electromatic didn't exist. If on, then the operation is as you described. There is no indicator light to let you know the on/off status.

There are some other conditions which have to be met for the control to be active but generally below a certain speed and if the accelerator is fully released, then when coming to a stop the clutch will start to disengage and will stay disengaged until you want to move again. A combination of switches and linkage operated by the accelerator pedal will command the clutch to reengage. If you never pressed the accelerator to go again during the issue then things could be working as designed.

Could also be a symptom of overdrive not engaging as the car will "free wheel" if you lift off the accelerator pedal before the overdrive kicks in or if it is not working properly.

Thanks Guys....
When I got the car there was not even a remnant of the electromatic clutch left on it. I just finished a complete re-wire (upgraded) of the entire car. There are no wires going to the clutch or overdrive. The carb linkage is only operating the throttle. I put a key start switch in, so there is nothing electrical involved with the accelerator. The mechanical overdrive cable was and still is disconnected. I am not interested in the overdrive functioning. If it is a matter of taking it out of overdrive, could I do this with the mechanical overdrive lever, under the car. Would this have any affect on the failure of the clutch to re-engage on the down-shift?
Thanks
Boodog

What you describe sounds to me just like the normal "free wheeling" effect that an overdrive which is mechanically engaged provides.

If the lockout lever is disconnected from the cable and is going to stay that way for awhile then the bottom of the lever needs to be pulled completely forward to the stop and tied so gravity can't let it drop back. Not sure how far lever has to move out of the locked out position before the internal parts could come into partial action. It is possible it was engaged and freewheeling or something was halfway engaged and not able to transmit power thru the OD.

If you still have issues I would look to make sure the clutch release lever on bellhousing is moving completely to the forward position when the clutch pedal is relaxed.

Thanks Guys.....
This makes sense, as the clutch is working perfectly when the peddle is released. A properly functioning clutch and pressure plate will also function well in a downshift. As it is, the car is totally "freewheeling", when a downshift is attempted. As stated, there is no electrical connection whatsoever with the drivetrain. If I were to reconnect the cable, could the overdrive be made to function, or would it require an electrical connection, a well? It looks as though there is a solenoid on the transmission. I don't know whether it's overdrive, or something to do with the old electromatic clutch?
Again, Many Thanks
Boodog

There are other electrical components needed for a normal functioning overdrive. Solenoid and governor on the OD unit and a relay and kickdown switch on the firewall. The OD lockout knob assy under the dash also has a switch on it. If you have all those pieces, then it might be made functional providing all are working. You need to determine which OD you have as the components are different between R9 and R11 units. Depending on which series 49, it should have the R11 but it is possible if it was an early or a renumbered 22nd the R9 is installed. Solenoid and lockout lever are on the drivers or left side for an R11 and on the passenger side for the R9.

There have been an install or two where part of the electrical components have been eliminated and the OD is worked strictly manual using a toggle switch but that will be for those who have made that mod to describe.

I suspected that this was more complicated than the old Ford overdrives. Since this car will not be a touring vehicle, I think the best thing to do is lock out the overdrive manually. It seems that I will not be able to get the overdrive gear ratio, without the other controls, which no longer exist on this car.
Have a Great Evening,
Boodog

There is a poster who uses his R11 with just a toggle switch. Turns it on to engage the solenoid when speed is appropriate and has a spring loaded portion to simulate the kickdown ignition interrupt to drop it out. Hopefully he will see this post and elaborate on exactly how he wired the switch and if anything was used or required other than the solenoid. If the R9 I don't believe a toggle switch will work without at least the relay because of the different solenoid requirements.