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My car requires endless cranking when it hasn't been started for a day or two. It can take up to 5 minutes to start it, during which I often end up flooding it from pumping the pedal too much. Initially, it just cranks and cranks with no indication that it's going to fire off. If it has been running and the engine is warm, it fires right up.

I am told an electric fuel pump will help out as I can give it a good priming shot when she has been sitting.

Anybody have experience installing one?

What is the best model to get for the 6V positive ground system this car has?

Where exactly does it get plumbed in and how do you wire it up?

If the engine was only awaiting the arrival of gas to start, it would start before it flooded. Pat the throttle once to set the automatic choke and crank. You symptoms point to problems with the choke, the ignition, or the compression, not just fuel delivery. Generally engines with good compression will always start easily. Engines that are tired await the perfect combination of factors before they light off.
All that to say, there is something else wrong. I would carefully check the condition of your existing fuel pump, flex line, and be certain the steel line from the tank is perfect and not allowing a little air in somewhere.

Ross is probably right.

However, I have the same problem with my car if it sits for more than a week. Seems the fuel line always empties back into the fuel tank, indicating a possible leak somewhere. However, I never smell gas in the garage.

The Airtex E-8011 (available at CarQuest and other places) is the one recommended by everyone. It's a six-volt unit, and has very low pressure so that a regulator is NOT needed. I have mine hooked up in line, no bypass needed if all you're going to do is prime upon first start.

Even if everything is working as new, today's fuel seems to cause problems in hot weather and when stuck in traffic. Also, after stopping for fuel or at a rest stop, and re-starting. It is nice to be able to turn it on for a few seconds as it starts starving for fuel, rather than being stuck in the middle of the freeway during rush hour.

If your mechanical pump has not been rebuilt sometime within the past five years or so, you would probably do yourself a favor by doing so, as the diaphragm will probably need to be updated with modern material.

Seems the fuel line always empties back into the fuel tank, indicating a possible leak somewhere

West, far more likely to be simple evaporation rather than a leak, I experience the same situation if the car sits longer than 7-10 days. It's not possible for the fuel in the carburetor to flow backwards toward the tank for two reasons, (1) you have a pair of one-way check valves in the fuel pump, and (2) more importantly, the fuel inlet to the carburetor is above the fuel level so you can't have a siphon effect.

When a hot engine is hard to restart and seems flooded, I'd check the choke of course, but also the anti-percolator valves on the carb (if so fitted) or the carburetor float bowl vent. If they are inoperative or not functioning, the heat soak pressurizes the fuel bowl and the only outlet for the pressure to relieve is for the fuel to exit thru the main jets into the manifold.

I have only had the car 2 years but would guess the carb has not been rebuilt for at least 10 years.

Is there a service I can mail the carb to and have it gone through and gaskets replaced to be compatible with modern E10 gas?

Unlike fuel pumps, carburetors have few (often no) parts that would be adversely affected by E-10, more likely age and accumulated mileage is the enemy, not the fuel. Perhaps the worst culprit is a rebuild by a prior owner who wasn't capable of doing the job properly. There are several very reputable and qualified carburetor rebuilders servicing the hobby and they would all use E10-compatible materials where and if applicable and probably have so for the last 15 years or so. But you're not likely to get a "quickie" gasket change from one of them, their business is full rebuilds which usually include cosmetics. Think in terms of about $350 for a superb rebuild of a 2-bbl. If you wanted to try it yourself, kits are available that are E-10 compatible.

IMO the best source for either a full rebuild or to buy a kit is Daytona Parts in Florida. A quick Google should find them. On the chance that your carburetor is not original and correct for the car, you'll want to check the numbers on it before ordering a kit.

I meant your mechanical fuel pump should be rebuilt to change the diaphragm material.

Thank you very much!

Would the Airtex 8902 be a better choice? It is rated at 2.5 - 4 psi whereas the E8011 shows 8psi, which seems too high for just a priming application?

No. Go with the 8011.