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The owner's manual calls for SAE 30W but says nothing about detergent vs non-detergent.

Is there a specific brand out there that anyone can recommend?

There are many posts on this site already discussing various brands and viscosity grades of oils, which I highly recommend reading, but here are some of the key takeaways:

-Detergent oil wasn't commercially available when the owners manual was printed, but has been used successfully for many miles by folks on this forum. Detergent oils help prevent and dissolve sludge
-Multi-weight (e.g., 10W-30) engine oil didn't exist when the owners manual was printed but is a better choice than a single weight oil if you have any real variation between low and high temperatures between day and night
-There have been significant advances in engine oil technology since that time
-A 10W-30 would be fine for this engine if daytime temperatures don't regularly get above 90 degrees F, otherwise a 10W-40 or 15W-40 is a good choice.
-Mixed fleet diesel/gasoline oils (I.e., those which are primarily meant for diesel vehicles but which also carry an API SL, SM, or SN rating) are an excellent choice because they have the levels of ZDDP some people feel is necessary in these old cars.
-Shell Rotella T Triple Protection, Mobil Delvac, and Chevron Delo are all widely available, well-respected brands, which offer oils in this space.

Quote:

Drew' advice is excellent.

Only thing I can add is that my '41 1901 is happiest when filled with one of the high quality 15-40 mixed fleet oils Drew mentioned.

Given you haven't had the car long, it would be a good idea to drop the oil pan and clean it.

There is also enough room in there for a magnet, stuck in a corner, to collect the metal chips that would normally be stuck to the bottom with a non-detergent oil.

Whenever possible, if oil pressure is sufficient I prefer the 10W-30 multi-grades because they are easier on timing chain gears and oil pump drives. Many of these cars suffer from dwell problems due to worn gears so if the motor is not worn a lighter oil is desirable.

Thank you all for the valuable advice! Much appreciated.

I'm just wrapping up a near-total restoration on this car, which has included:
- Transmission rebuilt
- Steering box rebuilt
- All brake components rebuilt/replaced
- Wiring harness replaced with a vintage-style one from Rhode Island Wiring
- Body stripped to bare metal and straightened, shut lines and gaps addressed
- Repainted in Packard Blue
- All chrome replated
- All stainless polished
- Reupholstered in material as close to original as available

The engine is the big unknown and, as it seems to be functioning fine, I've left it alone for the time being. I had a compression and leakdown test done at purchase and it showed between 102 and 110 on all cylinders. Is this good?

I've had several issues lately with the points being very finicky as to the gap setting and the motor cutting out on me in mid-drive and failing to fire up after prolonged cranking attempts. I have been told to install a Pertronix unit in the distributor and be done with the hassles. I'd be curious to hear your views on this.

As for dropping the oil pan, will I need a replacement gasket when I put it back on or do I use Permatex and make my own?

Re: Oil Pan - Recommend you order a new pan gasket from one of the regular vendors (Kanter, Max Merritt, etc.). Making your own gasket is just asking for trouble.

Thoroughly clean the old gasket material off of the pan and engine. Apply a light coating of gasket cement on the pan and attach the gasket to it. Apply a light coating of wheel bearing type grease to the gasket surface that will be next to the engine. The cement will keep the gasket in place and the greased surface will allow the pan to slide against the engine when installing it and reducing chance of damaging the gasket.

Before installing the gasket on the pan place the pan edge on a smooth surface (like the edge of a workbench) and lightly pound down any dimples caused by the bolts from being tightened too tight. The flanged surface should be even and smooth.

Good luck.

(o{}o)

Thanks for the great advice and information! I will follow your suggestions and will use the Shell Rotella Triple Protection oil once the pan has been cleaned out.

Would 10W30 or 15W40 be the more appropriate choice? I live in Seattle where the weather it seldom gets below 30F or over 80F (and I wouldn't drive on those days anyway).

Shell Rotella T is a 15W-40.

Actually, if your engine is nice and snug (without excessive wear) and you'll be driving mostly in the moderate temperature ranges you noted, a name-brand SAE10W-30 would be my choice over a 15-40 as noted previously by Tim Cole.

Thanks, Owen!

They actually make a Shell Rotella T "Triple Protection" in 10W30 viscosity which seems to have the appropriate levels of zinc people talk about. Sounds like that's the right viscosity for mild/moderate temperatures vs 15W40?

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that product.