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The projected tip plugs DO NOT fit in the flathead engine. I removed the number one spark plug and rotated the engine untill the valve under the spark plug hole was at the highest point. Then I tried to install the projected tip plug by hand with some clay on the electrode to check clearance....there was only a hair of clearance. Now I know it is not an option....

I made an appointment this week for an appraisal of my clipper so I can adjust my insurance accordingly. We'll see what number they come up with. I had one done about 10 years ago (before the restoration) and they appraised it at 7200?.
We'll see how many things I've done imperfectly Going to bring all my receipts and some cormorant issues with similar cars for sale.

There is no "agreed value" classic car insurance over there?

Through Hagerity Insurance I have my Clipper insured for $16,000, with an annual premium of $130.

The insurance companies here mostly do market value for insurance and you really need an appraisal every couple of years to verify the value of the car. From what I hear, even if you do "agreed value", the insurance company agrees to charge you a higher premium to insure your agreed value, but in case of theft/accident then they may not pay more than market value. A documented and signed appraisal is important here.
The appraisal company needs a week or so to come up with a number, but it looks like it will be between 16 and 20k?.
With liability and complete coverage, insurance is about 200? a year.

My appraisal came in the mail yesterday, and they rate the car as a 3+ on a scale of 1 to 5. 1 is better than factory, 2 is great condition and even after looking closely you can't find any small problems. 3 is still good condition with no mechanical problems, but when you look close, there are details that could be fixed. That fits to my car.
That comes to a value of 21k?. Now for insurance...
One thing they actually noticed (to my surprise) was that my Briggs body number tag does not match. My correct tag was missing when I got the car, and I managed to get a tag from a 53 4 door that I parted out some 15 years ago. It has the numbers 2692- 5385 pressed into it.
I am going to try and get the correct numbers pressed into my plate, but am not sure what should be on the plate. 2665 is the first 4 digits, but what about the last 4?
My car is a clipper delux club sedan. 2611 or 2665 are the factory designations for it. Is there a logic to the last 4 numbers?
Thanks!

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The last 4 numbers represents the sequential production # for that exact chassis and body type, beginning with a base of 2001. Thus in the photo you show that car would have been the 3385th 2692 built. Just as a bit of trivia, 1953 was the first year that Briggs' name appeared on that tag. Prior to 1951 it was extremely uncommon for the Briggs number to match the vehicle number, primarly because cars weren't necessarily sent down the production line in the same order as the bodies were built by Briggs. But beginning in 1951 Packard and Briggs rationalized their procedures and the Briggs# and Vehicle# should match.

That type of vehicle number, the body type first followed by the sequential production number, was introduced by Packard in 1932 and used continuously from then until the end in 1956. The only thing that changed was the baseline or starting point for the sequential #, at times it was 1, 11, 201, 1001 and 2001.

Thanks Dave,
so if total production was 4678 units for the 2665, then the last 4 numbers should be between 2001 and 6678....
Hmm.
On the build sheet that I found on the top of the glove box there are the numbers 2665 KO 5386. KO is the color scheme. 5386 fits in the number range.
Could that be the correct number for the briggs plate? That would make my car # 3386 of the 2665s that were built for 1953.

..so if total production was 4678 units for the 2665, then the last 4 numbers should be between 2001 and 6678....

Correct.

On the build sheet that I found on the top of the glove box there are the numbers 2665 KO 5386.

The definitive vehicle number is the number entered in the space marked "VEHICLE NUMBER" on the plate on the A-pillar, driver's side. Assuming no one swapped build slips (hard to think of anything more unlikely), 2665-5386 as found on the build slip should agree with the number on the A pillar plate. Whatever the origins or error with your Briggs tag, it's likely to remain a mystery.

Springtime is here! After sitting in the garage since November, I cranked the engine a few seconds (about 10 sec) with the ignition off until oil pressure was built up. Cranked a second time with the ignition on, and she started right up. I was surprised how quickly the carb got gasoline. I'm glad to be driving the Packard again.

I am enjoying the packard and driving it every few days. Life is good with my clipper. One thing I wanted to ask here...The engine builder who rebuilt my engine mentioned that he didnt use a gasket for the oil pump, but only some rtv to make the seal. I know porsches are very sensitive to the thickness of this gasket. Thinner gaskets create higher pump pressure.
I have an oil gauge in my car, and with just about any rpm above idle, I have about 40 psi. Idle is about 20psi warm, and I think about 10 or 15 when really hot after a long autobahn drive in summer. I think the oil pressure is good or even a bit high. (Can it even be considered high?)
Have any of you here rebuilt an oil pump, and do you have a preference for gasket thickness, or no gasket like my builder did? I should probably leave it as it is, but could consider running a gasket. Oil is 10w40.