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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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Cli55er
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Thanks! the vinyl that was on there was not put on as well as I did (not to toot my own horn) and it was on there for 10 years or more. it was not sealed either, but relied solely on the stickem on the back of the vinyl.

I hope what I did stays longer. I sealed it front and back with thick coats of high gloss clear. only one little corner has me somewhat concerned as when I stretched the vinyl it poked a hole at the very tip of the corner. I tried to seal it as good as I could. if it doesn't last....simple...I have PLENTY of left over vinyl and I will do it again.

I also plan to do the wing shaped moldings on each door as they are black and I think they would look better matched to the brown door panels if they were burlwood. I may also repaint the window moldings brown or burlwood wrap them as to me the black doesn't go well with the interior. all in good time.

Posted on: 2016/8/16 15:44
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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Cli55er
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taking off the old wiring harness. its not in horrible shape as far as the parts that actually belong to it. the parts that they hacked on are the bad parts. the cloth is in great shape, etc. they also had 3 wires in the wrong position on the headlight switch.

the switch has had some repairs and to be honest I'm not 100% sure of the purpose of the contact points on the side although it is shown on the wiring diagram. i'll have my work cut out for me trying to figure out how to make the new harness work with the old headlight switch.

I plan on cleaning up all of the dash switches before reinstallation as well.

you can see where someone repaired the key switch. not sure what the GA RAD and AM stand for next to each post on the key switch.... any guesses? AM for ammeter maybe?

there are original bits and pieces under the carpet as well. even the original dark brown carpeting that is tucked and screwed down at the firewall. even some original sound muffling material.

I also broke open the useless voltadrop unit. one side was broken and other was fine. no idea why the one side that was working was putting out 12v though, but it is obvious why the other was putting out 0.

found some initials on the oil pressure gauge as well. LS I think. was it who calibrated it? no idea.

any idea if the temp gauge wire can be disconnected? I couldn't figure out how to get it off if so. I had to leave the temp gauge in the car to get the gauge cluster off.

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Posted on: 2016/8/18 15:44
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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HH56
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There was a running change in headlight switches in 37 so yours could be one of two switches. Check out page 22 in the 37-38 service manual for an illustration of the switches showing the differences. The terminals are labeled and might help you figure it out.

Posted on: 2016/8/18 15:52
Howard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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thanks for this reference, that should be very helpful!

I have started running the new wiring harness and tonight I wired it up just enough to start the car shortly using the key and the starter switch.

I have many pictures to post, but right now I'm in search of a 3ohm internally resisted coil so I can get rid of this external ballast resistor.

the only thing I can really find from a short search is a couple of pertronix units, one at 40k and one at 28k volts.

I don't really care about how many volts, its no race car. I was thinking about the 28k 3ohm unit, but its like 30 bucks....

surely there is a standard universal unit I can get at the local autoparts store that is 3ohms and around like 30k-35k volts for like half that price.

forgot to mention, I measured the ohms on the ballast resistor....it was 3 and settled in at 2.8, probably error on the cheap meter I was using. I need to check to make sure the coil isn't internally resisted as well, although I doubt it.

Posted on: 2016/8/24 23:51
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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JWL
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Henry, you may be over thinking this. Why not just get a universal 12V internal resistor coil? Also, here is a suggestion for connecting the wire from the switch to the coil (which is now in the shielding). The wire does not need to be shielded, unless you are going for a show judged car. Mount the coil on the cylinder head but turned around form the usual position. Then, you can easily fasten the switch and distributor wires and only end up with a slightly longer high tension lead. This is what I would do.

You may need to address the full battery voltage going to the coil when starting the engine, and then switching back to the circuit with the resistor. I would see how it starts with out worrying about the starting bypass. It may be just fine without a bypass circuit.

Did a full fluid change on the Avanti on Tuesday. Lots of old dirty fluid (engine, transmission, differential, brakes)
was replaced with new and clean stuff. I had the work done at a friends restoration shop. They have a lift and are two of the best mechanics I have ever seen work.

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2016/8/25 10:58
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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I think there may have been some confusion in my last post. I AM looking for an internally resisted universal 12v coil. the only one I could readily find was the pertronix unit. but surely there are cheaper ones I can get at the auto parts store. I'm just having a hard time. if I new a car make and year that used a 3 ohm internal resisted unit it would be easier.

the coil is already mounted the way I would like it to be. faces the distributor and the new wiring harness has the coil wire coming out perfectly with the other wires I passed through the side of the car at the firewall where the original harness comes out.

I have purchased braided wire loom to make it look more original and to cover up the wire colors. trust me when I'm done it will be top notch.

as for the bypass. it did not have one on the original harness that they hacked up to convert to 12v. it started fine. I temporarily hock up the wires on the new harness to start the car....it started....no bypass needed.

in the pictures you will see I took apart the key switch. it was clean inside. the switch itself is not exactly repairable from a take apart stand point. can't replace that wire at the source. another member said they used a soldering iron to remove the wire from it's terminal, but that was on a 39. mine appeared to be crimped on. the wire itself was good after I took the shielding off. obviously it was a hazard waiting to happen as the insulation wasn't in good shape, but the wire itself was like brand new. so I took the shielding off the backing plate via grinder and used heat shrink on the wire. I put a rubber washer and some silicone on it at the base to keep it from flexing as much so that it didn't break. the rubber washer is under the backing plate and the silicone is on the outside. no pics of that...sorry. fingers covered in goo.

I wouldn't want to have to repair this switch often as the case is that brittle pot metal crap.

also just from thinking about it....you really don't need that coil wire coming out....you could just jump off of the right side of the switch. both the right side and the coil wire output the same voltage when the key is turned to on.

good thinking on the fluids, I do that with every used car I buy. belts, fluids, etc...

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Posted on: 2016/8/25 11:18
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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HH56
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It is better to keep the coil feed separate. I am not saying it will happen on your car but there are some cases a voltage feedback thru another component can occur. If the coil and the other component are on the same terminal the feedback could still get to the coil and the engine would keep running when you turned the key off. With the separate feed, when the ign key is off the contact inside the switch to both terminals is broken so any feedback cannot reach the coil.

Posted on: 2016/8/25 11:39
Howard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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very true. it was just the way I got the car to start as I had not fished the original coil wire out of the firewall when I tested everything. I was being lazy and just hooked it to the post that supplied power to the starter switch. the car didn't run long and I killed it by pulling the coil wire off.

Posted on: 2016/8/25 11:42
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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here are several more pictures of the progress on the car. cleaned up all of the switches inside and out and ran the new harness through the original harness hole.

the headlight switch was a mess. notice the orientation of the contacts, one is opposite.

I put electrical grease on everything during assembly.

the picture of the diode is the anti feedback for the 10si alternator that is on the car. they did a craptacular job of crimping all that on. I bought a kit to make it look nicer and i'll keep the diode in the car if needed. the diode keeps the feed from flowing backwards and not allowing the car to turn off.


the lug on the starter solenoid was stripped bad and instead of fixing it they just jb welded the nut on. awesome job there guys! so I tried to rethread it...no go at original 5/16 size. had to go down to a 1/4" it works and I can get a nut on it now.

also not sure if the headlight pull handle goes through both the holes in the switch. like the bottom hole and the top hole in the copper/brass thing. I didn't see it when I took it off. I assume it goes through both holes????

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Posted on: 2016/8/25 11:51
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
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pulled off the alternator to reclock it so that the wires were not coming out towards the motor. with the wires coming out of the driver's side it would be easier to hook it in with the harness, etc.

well a few things of note. 1. the alternator was installed upside down. 2. after taking it apart, pieces were missing and the brushes were near gone. the brush holder was broken. bye bye alternator. ordered a new one from NAPA.

the new alternator and the old one had the same case design, so since I had to reclock the new one, I just reused the front housing from the old one so I did not have to hack into the new one to make it work with the brackets. this way the lifetime warranty stays in place as when I need to bring it in for replacement, I just put the original front of the case back on. I did pry off the bearing grease cap on the front bearing of the old case front and regreased it. Part numbers are listed, not that anyone really needs them for a 37 Packard unless they plan to convert to 12v.

I also found a 3.2ohm internally resisted coil as BigKev advised. NAPA as well. and it came with posts for quick disconnect. the coil that was on there was actually 1.5 internal with a 1.5 external added to make it 3ohm. I wasn't reading my ohm meter correctly and forgot to subtract the resident ohm of the wires on the meter.

I did some of the wiring under the dash. decided to start with the starting system and move from there. I used some of the wiring wrap I bought for the 55 as I have plenty of it. I shrink wrapped each end to keep it from unraveling and used non insulated connectors covered in shrink wrap. I also ordered braided loom to go over that. the wire wrap is so that the wire colors do not show through the loom.

the pink wire is the coil wire, which I put a bullet connector on it so I could disconnect it whenever I felt like it.

Battery power goes to the left side of key switch, then purple wire is labeled neutral safety switch. that goes to the starter button and then the rest of the purple wire goes to the starter solenoid. so basically there is no neutral safety even though the wire is labeled that. there is a wire labeled for the ACC, which the key switch does not have, so I have to figure out what I want to do with that. maybe it will work connecting it to the left pole of the starter switch so that it operates as original where you can turn the motor over without the key in. I'm not sure yet. but I don't think that will work either as I don't think that wire has live power, but is supplied power from the battery cable on the key switch if you put it in ACC. what to do what to do....hmmmmm.


what the heck I'm going to do with all the left over wires still on the harness is another issue. don't really like the idea of wires just curled up and hanging there with live 12v on them.

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Posted on: 2016/8/29 12:56
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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