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A few days ago there was a discussion on the parts that help hold the sidemount spares in. I have purchase new rubber to replace the ones on my car. There are two parts that are needed on is a part -37 and the other is a -36. The ones on my car that I am removing are still useable however. You are welcome to them after I remove them if you are interested.

I will post to my blog in the next few few days, as my 1090 is now at my shop in Alabama and is soon to be going in for a paint job.

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It wasn't me that needed these parts. Mine are there and functioning.

It was someone on here with a 36 I believe. Can't remember the user name.

One thing I noticed is that my sylphon pivot arm has a bend in it and yours does not. Either way it still worked. Look at my pic of it in the pan and you will see the bend at the end of the arm. Probably not supposed to be there.

The aluminum radiator shop says they can build the new radiator with the sylphon hole and hump but at additional cost. I decided to pass as this removes a point of leaking and worry about it needing to be rebuilt for nearly 300 bucks. A bracket welded to the radiator will allow me to still adjust the shutters... which will pretty much stay open. It's too damn hot around here.

I'm excited to see an update on your blog!

"It wasn't me that needed these parts. Mine are there and functioning. It was someone on here with a 36 I believe. Can't remember the user name."

See this thread.

this weekend consisted of power washing and being very wet, and driving to Commanche Texas to meet up with Terrill.

took the dart to Commanche.....decided it wanted to start leaking trans fluid from the front seal. last time I was on this same road...trans spilled it's guts. I had a small talk with it on the side of the road and told it....you are getting us home....with a few cuss words....then it got us home. it'll just sit till I can get the trans redone finally. dropped off fuel pump and water pump with Terrill....water pump he says should be doable. David...i'll let you know.

anyways on to the actual 37 work.....

getting the freeze plugs out was no easy task either....had to get the air hammer out.

went to test compression....realized I don't have a 10mm adaptor for the gauge.

trying to get the gorilla glued head off the block! holy s@3# that damn thing is welded on there. I already search the forum and internet for help. one thing that sorta helped was turning the motor over to use the compression to push the head up. that sorta helped as all it really did was find the easiest way out the head gasket seem. I sprayed the studs with PB several times and I'm letting them sit.

used 3lb sledge on a screw driver to wedge it....barely getting in there at all. leaning over the fender isn't helping either.

going with air hammer with chisel next, but worried i'll damage something. read about the spark plug mod to pull up with engine hoist....no room in garage for that.


block was so full of crap that when I took the block drain out...nothing came out. I blasted in every hole I could find and cleaned out the block drain hole as well. about an hour later and it was pure water coming out. 2500psi pressure washer did the job well.

this is what 2500psi does to 20+ year old paint too. it will all get repainted. new metal lines as well.

broke on of the UY6 spark plugs...ordering AL3136 replacements.

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I can't even begin to tell you what a battle it was getting this head off!! I'm pretty sure it was the head gasket that my Grandfather put on 23 years ago. The exhaust/intake gaskets said McCord on them. didn't look close enough at the battle torn head gasket. it was metal type though.

had to take off the inner fender panel to get the exhaust/intake combo off. and of course someone already broke off the rearmost and forward most studs for the exhaust manifold. front one I can get to and fix...rear...firewall is in the way of a drill getting a straight shot. not sure what the hell I'm gonna do there. I really don't have the room to pull the front off and take out the motor.

of course one of the exhaust pipe bolts broke off.....GAH.... but luckily no other studs or bolts broke.

I'm so exhausted.....5 hours of over and over hammering with screwdrivers and wedges. I even used an air hammer that I modified the chisel on so it wouldn't damage the head/block. I ground the chisel so it resembled more of a screwdriver then a chisel.

as you can see....it was pretty damn gross under all that. a good cleaning is in order. the cylinder walls don't look to bad. the front cylinder could use a light scotch bright rubbing to clean up some of the residue. minimal scoring and no ring ridge at all.

I'm guessing the coin slots on the top of the valves are for adjusting? all valves seem okay at quick inspection. need to take off valve covers and inspect and probably give it a valve adjustment. i'll look this procedure up, but i'll probably need tips on this from those that have done it.

now back to mending all the bruises....and yes I did bleed all over this thing!

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The slots in the head of the valves are for rotating them back and forth with lapping compound between the valve and the block to seat them.

well that makes sense. i'll have to see if they even need it, but since the head is off....might as well give it a good lapping.

well shit.................sigh.

I don't even now why I try...seems like all I do is screw things up.

might as well get the head decked now...and might as well pull the motor now...deck the block. replace all the studs with stainless and get those broken studs for the exhaust repaired.

I gotta replace the trans anyways.

now...how to take off the fenders/grille, etc....and then where the hell to put them.

here are some pics of the valves.


seriously don't know why I get myself into these problems. what started out as trying to fix the cooling issue has pretty much turned into an engine rebuild....just about.

I do have a spare 36 head...no idea if that will work or what shape it is in....but still the block is damaged too. no head gasket or copper spray is taking up that much material.

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Yuck! You have a rather dirty engine. Probably about the way the one I drove in HS looked after all the mistreatment it had beforre I got thru with it. Is that an aluminum head to have it gouge like that? Fortunately, I don't think the gouge will be too serious where it is. Even if surfacing can't get rid of it completely I would think it could be filled with a good metal filled epoxy and then smoothed for edge appearance if nothing else. If the stud is one of those into the water jacket then I would fill it to prevent any possible issue.

I would be more concerned about whether the head has already been worked on and how much more the head could be decked before there are valve clearance issues. Wonder if those early heads have the same height dimension Ross posted a few weeks ago. I would certainly use some body putty or modeling clay on the valve tops to check clearance before bolting it down though.

I see above that you couldn't take compression readings because you didn't have the correct 10mm adapter. As such, I wonder waht the impetus was to remove the head as the bores look good and there is no ridge meaning no bore wear.
The carbon in the head is nothing unusual, running it and accelerating hard usually dislodges it. If it is not dislodged all it does at best is to raise the compression ratio.