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Yes it is very dirty. I was thinking jb weld too, but only cause I'm worn out and tired and looking for an easy fix. Head is not aluminum, weighs too much for that. The damage was from a screw driver. That was the part of the block that just did not want to lift up. And of course it was right at a water hole. So I'm afraid of leaking now. I thought out of it all the air hammer would have screwed it up... but no..... a cheap ass screw driver did.

I didn't know the cylinders where good. I had what looked like oil coming from the head gasket area on drivers side, which was probably from the fill tube as HH said. Regardless I'm glad I did... god this thing is horrible looking. I'm pretty sure this is the head gasket my grandfather put on 23 years ago. In that video all he did was take it off... look at everything and put a new gasket on. And remember the last time you knocked me down over possible 23 year old front motor mounts? Anyways..... I don't think the motor needs a rebuild. Just a decking... new studs....valve regrind (might as well do hardened seats). I have another trans I need to put in due to bad synchros anyways.

This all started because the motor was running well over 200, so I guess I'm checking over everything.

I got a lot of reading to do... how to properly take off the front clip and how to adjust the valves.

well I have another head....but alas it is not an HC...looks like it was already decked as well.

also found some 010 bearings (no idea...look like rod or maybe cam bearings) in a box of EGGE 060 pistons. pretty sure they are EGGE...only three rings on the pistons

found a machine shop that does old vintage motors several times a year and is familiar with the Packard 282. will take head to him too look.

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You mentioned you want to surface the head and also the block. Keep in mind that after you take material off you can't put it back. Doing both is necessary IF they are warped but absolutely not recommended if they are straight. 282 engines are not known for warpage and I don't recall any signs of combustion leakage in the photos.

Proceed with good advice and caution

the block was gouged as well in the same place the head was, although not as deep. would like to at least have them pull all of the studs to have stainless replacements put in. also need those broken exhaust studs at front and back extracted otherwise I'm gonna get an exhaust leak.

decking them both is not because of warpage...but because of the gouge from the screw driver. if only that had not happened....sigh....

I should have just left the damn head on..... but I guess at least I'm learning about the motor. HH was probably right and the oil on the side of the motor was from the filler tube.

I'm trying to take all the advice given.

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head is warped......

machine shop says gouge and warp fixable. will be filling in gouge

guy stuck a strait edge across all the middle stud holes...could see daylight under the middle...shouldn't even beable to stick a feeler gauge under it.

engine is coming out for sure now.

deck head

deck block

new stainless studs

3 angle valve job with hardened seats

etc etc

pretty sure this motor has been needing this for a long while. pretty sure this is why it was hard to get the head off. even with it barely on the studs I had to stand over the top of the motor and yank with all my might.

$$ but you shouldn't have to do it again and will be well worth it to have your grandfathers car in good shape for the next generation.

yeah I don't want to pull this front off or motor out again. I'm gonna do it, get it over with, and live life driving my 37. none of us are promised tomorrow.

checking head for cracks first before doing any work as well. if cracked....Flack....

its funny too cause me and the owner of the machine shop had a good laugh about how I had a spare head.....but it wasn't a HC head. its just my luck.

wonder what makes one HC and the other not....I didn't see much difference to my naked eye to be honest.


another stupid question..is it possible to run hydraulic lifters on this motor? so valve adjustments are not needed anymore. just wondering. I believe the later straight 8s had hydraulic no?? I'm guessing the cam isn't right either as it is a flat tappet cam.

I'm also sitting here dreaming of a 4 barrel intake manifold (don't think there is one for the 282) with fuel injection. lol yeah...right... lol

So what causes a head to warp?

Can a warped head be fixed?

overheating I'd say.

and yes...by decking the head, depending on how bad the warp is. can only remove so much material before the head can't be used.

I believe they can also heat the head and reshape...but not as many machine shops do that method. I've never seen one that does. most deck.

gotta love the coin balancing on its edge on this Packard motor!


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