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Hydraulic stop light switch
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/4/21 2:47
From Hawthorne ca
Posts: 69
Hey guys, when replacing the stop switch, any bleeding of the system necessary? Is it a simple remove and replace? For a 22nd series

Posted on: 2016/3/24 12:18
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2292 49 touring
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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Joined:
2007/3/14 16:01
From New Jersey
Posts: 15627
It's almost never necessary to bleed the brakes after changing the switch. The only exception would be if someone stepped on the brake pedal while the switch was removed, or perhaps if the car sat for some extended time with the old swtich removed before installing the new one. That said, if the pedal is anything less than firm you should bleed them. Very simple to remove and replace the switch (SL-134 from NAPA), just remove the wires, unscrew the old one, screw the new one in and reattach the wires.

Posted on: 2016/3/24 12:23
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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Joined:
2013/4/21 2:47
From Hawthorne ca
Posts: 69
Beautiful! Thanks brother 😁 Gonna tackle it after work

Posted on: 2016/3/24 12:30
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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Joined:
2013/4/21 2:47
From Hawthorne ca
Posts: 69
Hey guys, so I replaced the stop switch (Napa) both rear bulbs were replaced as well. Still nothing. My taillights do work, nothing happens when braking though... Could this be crossed wires at the trunk? Or is there something else I should check?

Posted on: 2016/3/25 16:27
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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2006/4/17 11:22
From North Aurora, IL
Posts: 9167
Break out a multimeter or test light and check for voltage at the switch. No voltage means something in the feed from the column harness. Voltage at one side of the switch bUT not the other side when the brakes are pressed mean a bad switch. Voltage on both sides means something further back in the harness between the switch and the lights. See the wireharness diagram for how the circuts are run.

Could also be a problem in the column turn signal witing or dirty connections

Posted on: 2016/3/25 16:41
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-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan | Project Blog

"While it's nice to be important, it's important to be nice."

"Although no one can go back and make a brand new start, anyone can start from now and make a brand new end."
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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Joined:
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15323
If stock, 22nd series brake lights won't go thru the turnsignal switch and turnsignals should have separate bulbs. I don't remember if you are one who did a modern harness so if that is the case no suggestions other than check voltage as Kev suggested.

Voltage check at the brake switch is also a good idea for a stock harness but there are a couple of other things you can check too. There are connectors under the L side of dash which connects the front part of loom to the wires in the section going overhead to rear. Make sure that a connector hasn't come apart. There is another connector -- 4 position type -- near the left taillight where the wire from the overhead loom feeds both bulb brake filaments. Make sure that is OK and of the proper type. There are different type connectors that look the same. The one used for brakes and the one for tail light filaments has all 4 positions shorted together.

If all is good then look at the bulbs -- remove one and hold it next to socket the way it would be inserted. Make sure the bulb terminals line up with the socket terminals. A few years ago some bulbs were available that would fit the socket just fine but when inserted and locked in position the terminals on bulb and terminals in socket were just offset enough that connection problems resulted. Also in the socket, make sure the phenolic support for the terminals hasn't been deformed and one terminal is lower than the other and not making contact.

Posted on: 2016/3/25 16:59
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Howard
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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Joined:
2013/4/21 2:47
From Hawthorne ca
Posts: 69
Fantastic! I finally got to the bottom of things , I had some wire issues just coming from the switch. I have both brake lights! Now, however, when the headlights/taillights are on, only one brake light works.... Crossed wiring maybe?

Posted on: 2016/4/12 12:24
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
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Joined:
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15323
On a 22nd series, there should be absolutely no connection between the taillight and brake circuits until each wire reaches the bulbs and lights their respective filaments. The filaments have a shared ground and is the only place the two circuits come together.

When the tail lights are on alone are the bulbs equally lit and are using the dimmer of the two filaments. Same with brake lights -- each bulb on the brighter filament and about the same light level.

I am wondering if possibly one side has the filaments reversed so the tail light is lighting the brighter filament. If that were the case, when brakes are applied it would light the dim filament and the additional light may be barely noticeable in comparison to the bright filament already being lit.

If the bulbs are the correct type and socket is not worn so they can be inserted improperly, the only other likely place for the switch to happen would be the 4 wire connectors near the left tail light. The overhead wires are plugged into the connectors and then each bulb is fed independently from that point. It is easy to get the filaments reversed there.

Posted on: 2016/4/12 13:25
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Howard
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2013/4/21 2:47
From Hawthorne ca
Posts: 69
That sounds about right.... One did seem dimmer than the other.... Unfortunately none of the wires are colored anymore... All seem to be black from the tape cover. I'll follow them as far back as I can to find the right wire patterns to re-wire the 4way junction properly. It's exactly what you said Howard, the one brake light isn't much brighter with taillights on. They are both equally bright without taillights on.

Posted on: 2016/4/12 20:30
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Re: Hydraulic stop light switch
Home away from home
Joined:
2008/8/23 21:43
From Minnesota
Posts: 1255
I'm resurrecting this thread because it speaks to a problem that just popped up. My brake lights don't work. Tail lights and signals do. Some of the information on the thread so far is helpful, but it deals mostly with problems after the brake light switch.

This is a '54 Clipper Deluxe with Easamatic brakes.

(Brake/tail lights have always worked except when left bulb loosens up sometimes.)


Questions:

1. Location of brake light switch on Easamatic.

2. Location of wiring supplying power to the switch and
from the switch to the tail lamps.

3. Location or description of wires/ connections/relays under dash? (in addition to those offered already by HH).

4. Any wires running near the master cylinder or under the car?

5. Wire description for brake lights in trunk. (again, in addition to those above by HH)


-- Additional info on location and description of wires would be helpful.


I couldn't find this information in the Shop Manual.

Thanks for any help you fellows can give.

Guy

(If this info is discussed in another thread, I apologize. I found this thread through a search for brake light switch.)

Posted on: 6/23 12:22:58
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Guy

Not an Expert

Lking for a '55 or '56 Packard or Clipper Hardtop: "Decent Driver"
FOUND a '54 Clipper Deluxe 3-speed OD with PS, PB, 327 "Thunderbolt" 81K on the clock. Very decent driver.
Still wouldn't mind a 2-door '55 or '56, but it might be a few years.

We had a 2-tone blue '55 Clipper Custom with Torsion Level in in my family beginning in 1955 when it was new (two years before I was born). The car was the regular family driver until 1969. You might say I grew up in a Packard!
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