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FYI, the pinging sound continues with key on or off and only stops when the battery is disconnected. The pinging started before I connected the radio to the battery. In the picture of the back of the instrument cluster, what is the red circle indicating? Also, in the photo showing the headlight breaker, what are the 2 red arrows pointing to? Thanks.

Sorry about that. They are preused photos and I wasn't smart enough to mark up a copy of the photos instead of the originals the first time I used them.

The red circle is the fuse for the clock that another poster had asked about. The red arrows were for another poster and point to the two barrel nuts holding the switch plate assy to the chrome casting. Those nuts have to be removed when you need to take the switch assembly plate out to remove a switch. If your problem turns out to be in a switch you might have to remove one too so here is another of BDeB's photos showing how things come apart.

Does or did all your lights work -- particularly the dome or rear courtesy lights -- before the pinging sound started? I noticed in another post you mentioned headlining work being done. There is a power wire for the courtesy lights running in a channel on the left side just above the doors. Depending on options, that wire can also have a spliced on wire dropping down the Left side center pillar to exit thru a hole at the floor. If that power wire was damaged or was tucked in and became shorted it could explain any circuit breaker issues.

Have you tried any lights when the pinging is occurring? If so which if any are flashing on and off. We need to try and identify for sure what is pinging and if it is a breaker, what circuits are affected.

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I don't mind saying I am a bit overwhelmed by the possibilities for the cause of the pinging, but am resigned to tracking it down. As far as I can tell, everything that was working before the car went to the upholsterer was working when I got the car back, including the dome light.

It was a struggle getting the radio in place and getting the chrome face reattached (I had to remove the chrome face to remove an old add-on speaker located between the chrome face and the dashboard "frame" behind it). I'm wondering if I might have pinched one of the wires between the radio case and the frame running under the radio. Another possibility might be a wire that runs from roughly from the center back of the switch area and through the firewall. This wire came unplugged during the operation and I have to get it plugged it back in once I determine the correct location (simple matter if not for a second disconnected wire in the same area). I'm going to see if there is a bare spot/short where the one wire runs through the firewall, as the insulation on that wire was in pretty bad shape. I didn't have to reach in behind the clock during the radio install, so I don't think the short is in that area.

If you have a photo of the dash switch assembly, showing the wires and where they connect, that could come in handy. Knowing what the different wires do, would also be helpful. Speaking of that, can you tell me what the device is that I've circled in the attached photo?

That's probably enough for this post. Thanks.

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The circled item is a wire resistor for low speed operation of the heater blower. The curved piece is a metal shield to keep other stuff away from the resistor wire as it can get quire hot.

I am ready to throw in the DIY towel on this one and get a new wiring harness installed. Are there options other than Kanter and Max Merritt for the harness? Also, if anyone knows of a shop in the Kansas City, MO area that could do the install, I'd love to get the name. Thanks.

Any number of places will make a reproduction wiring harness but none are exactly inexpensive. Rhode Island Wiringhttp://www.riwire.com Narragansetthttp://www.narragansettreproductions.com/wiring-harness.html and Y&Zhttp://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com are some of the larger places. There are others who do good work such as Potomac Packard Wiring. I do not believe Potomac has a website but several have used them and can probably supply contact info.

If you are not that much into authenticity or unless it absolutely has to be stock looking, there are others who have had good results by using much less expensive universal modern harnesses. It is however, more involved to install a universal harness. Since they are not specific to Packards you have to be able to follow a Packard wiring diagram and also understand a bit about how things are connected. If you choose that route, be sure to get one rated for heavy duty or 6v use so the wire size will be more appropriate for 6v. The universal types are available in several circuit capacities but for a typical stock 22-23 series Packard 8 to 10 is adequate.http://stores.ez2wire.com/KW8EC-8-Circuit--Economy-Universal-Wiring-Harness_p_4357.html Painless is another universal supplier that some have used.

Have you verified a breaker opening is actually what is happening to cause the pinging by turning on various lights or accessories to see if or which items are acting up. That could help narrow the problem area down.

Can't help on someone to install a harness but hopefully someone else can.

Keep plugging and keep the faith... This is a new problem to you, so it's expected.
We unfortunately get overwhelmed when we don't have/follow a troubleshooting methodology or maybe don't have the proper tools or know how.
In my estimation from reading your posts, you'd have to use some sort of acoustic pickup to find the exact source of the "ping" since your ear is apparently not able to discern it's origin since it's in a location that is not easy to hear up close. I don't know if there are any cell/smart phone apps for this. You could call someone and move the phone mic around and let them tell, if louder or not.
There's ways with a wave form scope with probes to see intermittent voltages or currents but maybe beyond what's needed. A fast digital DVM may also able to be used. Some models($$$) have a small scope screen on them. Analog's may not respond fast enough but sometimes they will "quivver" when the signal is oscillating. Depends on the amplitude and frequency.
The simplest but most laborious method is to one by one disconnect from power each circuit then re connect until it stops and restarts on power. You already have established its driven by the electrical power being on. Repeat that for the other circuits. Most auto DC problems arise from poor grounding issues.
Depends on your time frame and wallet but I suggest you get some help from a local automotive electric shop. They might be able to find your issue faster than you can. Search online or check the yellow pages. If there isn't one near to you, some local electric rebuilders / motor winders would have the expertise and may do this for you. But you'll probably have to take the car to them, which I don't know if you can accomplish. You have to judge.
If it's a component pinging and you rewire, it may not resolve your ping. A short usually doesn't ping. Thermal devices are more likely.
Other possibilities, it maybe a normal sound that gets "drowned out" when the motors running, something like a malfunctioning turn signal blinker. A short in that wiring would feed it but may not send enough voltage to fully activate lights. Contactors(relays/regulators) tend to chatter not ping.

Harnesses Unlimited. These folks make excellent harnesses and subharnesses. This is their Packard catalog page:
http://www.harnessesunlimited.com/new%20forms/packard%20web%20page.pdf

Thanks for the response. Please clarify:

What is the meaning of the phrase "...if the insulation in the loom is cracked...?"

What is circled in 23 series cluster.jpg?

Are there other photos taken by BDeB that are avaialble of viewing?

BTW, I haven't yet connected the radio and the pinging happens whether the ignition key is on or off.

Thanks for the encouraging words.

I am 6'-3" and don't fold (and unfold) as well as I used to. With maximum contortion I can get a somewhat limited direct view of the backside of the dash, but the use of my hands while in that position is very limited. Is there a better way to view and work on the wiring in behind the dash?

Just to clarify, the pinging happens whether the ignition key is on or off. I can only stop the pinging by disconnecting the battery.