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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#11
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HH56
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Is there a bar or U shaped channel bolted between the fenders slightly in front of the radiator which supports the right head light cable? If so that may need to come off. If the top radiator connection is longer than normal that could cause a problem.

I seem to remember a post from a few years back where someone did wind up cutting the top of the cradle off for clearance. IIRC, he made the cuts 3 or so inches down from the curves or slightly above the bracket where the fenders bolt to the cradle sides. To replace the section he fabricated a couple of sheetmetal straps or splices bent so it would wrap around 3 sides of the bar. I believe he said they were made from 16 gauge metal and roughly 3 inches long. He painted them and held the splices on with sheetmetal screws above and below the cut to secure the top section rigidly in position. I believe the bar is hollow so it might even be possible to use a short piece of angle iron inside the bar and hold the sections together with a couple of bolts. Make something like that and the modification would not be too noticeable.

If you are contemplating the instructions Ross gave to remove or install the engine/trans as a unit you will need to cut that top off anyway so maybe it would be worth it to do it to more easily remove the radiator.

Posted on: 2016/12/20 0:16
Howard
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#12
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50 2382
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I sweated removing the upper radiator support...I finally drilled out the spot welds, removed the grill and the whole motor trans and OD slipped out nicely..Photos in my Blog
Mark

Posted on: 2016/12/20 16:33
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#13
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austinsailor
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I finally got it out. I removed all 4 of the bolts on each side of the outer, forward sides of the radiator support. These are the 3/8" head bolts with a pointed screw that goes inward. Took a 1/4" air ratchet stuck up there, not a lot of room. I also removed the bolts on the sides that hold the brace going forward to the bumper. Those were a real pain, and I'm not sure how I'll ever get them started again. Also the 2 bolts on each side that hold the radiator frame to the fender.

Doing this allows enough flex that the radiator can move forward enough (I needed about 1/2") for the inlet to clear the top of that frame.

There must be another way that the factory mechanics did this, but I don't see it. I cannot imagine everytime the radiator had to come out someone would have this much difficulty.

The good news is, the motor is ready to come out. I'll probably tackle that tomorrow. My Harbor Freight motor lift thing won't go high enough, I don't think, so I'll use a skid loader with forks. I'm pretty sure I can pluck it out with that. I still have to figure out where to bolt the chains, but surely I can figure that out.

Oh, I did manage to get the old motor unstuck, but now that I have a better view, it's clear that it is split open pretty bad at the bottom of the water jacket. This new, low milage motor will be just the ticket.

Posted on: 2016/12/20 22:55
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#14
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Owen_Dyneto
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Removed a radiator on a 2301 this past spring; took a bit of jiggling and wiggling but nothing had to be disassembled other than the radiator retaining bolts. Close quarters with the radiator neck but it did clear without further disassembly.

Posted on: 2016/12/21 10:31
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#15
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austinsailor
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I'd been asked several places what model my Coupe is and had no idea. Just talked to Kantor about brakes. According to them, my serial number says it's a "Super Deluxe Eight Club Coupe". Starting 4 of the sn is 2275.

Posted on: 2016/12/21 14:38
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#16
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HH56
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That is what the book says and also that your car is on the 2202 chassis. That chassis number is important when ordering most mechanical parts and the 2275 body number is needed when ordering most body trim or parts.

If you don't already have a printed parts manual download the intro section of the 48-54 manual from the literature section. The first few pages in the section will give you the pertinent info on your car as well as color and upholstery combinations available..

Posted on: 2016/12/21 14:59
Howard
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#17
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Ozstatman
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Here is a little more info about 2275's from the Packard Model Info section on this Website, including links to free downloadable relevant manuals and literature.

Posted on: 2016/12/21 15:03
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#18
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austinsailor
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Well. I just got the motor out. What fun that was. It came out nearly nose stright up. That loop over the radiator is quite a problem. I expect I'll go the route of drilling out the spot welds and putting in bolts.

There is no way I could have gotten it out with my regular roll around engine hoist. Wouldn't go high enough, and it I extended it out it wouldn't have handled the weight. The skid loader was pretty high by the time it cleared.

I can now see the problem with the crack in the block. It had about an 8" to 10" crack where it turns back into the cylinder, I expect it was welded at the same time as the one at the top. Looks like the weld leaked, then had a liberal coating JB weld or something similar that started leaking.

It's pretty sad, really, as he changed the motor back about 20 years ago when it was restored. I guess that was all he could find. In 1996 the internet wasn't quite as handy, today a good motor, not in need welding, could have easily been found. But then, if the motor had been good and it was running, it might have been out of my price range.

In the next day or two I'll strip that block. I'll get the clutch and pressure plate rebuilt, maybe resurface the flywheel, get a new throwout bearing, get the water pump and fuel pump replaced or rebuilt. Probably a bit of paint, make it look nice.

I think this is going to come together nicely.

Posted on: 2016/12/22 18:44
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#19
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austinsailor
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Needing a source for some parts. I want to make this reliable, so I'll freshen up the things that likely could cause problems before I put it together. Some I know where to go, some not. I did a little searching of old posts and the part ref here and didn't learn much.

Here's my plan:

Clutch/pressure plate rebuilt, will go to Unique auto Rebuilderrs, Jonesburg, MO, a 75 minute drive away. Usually they can rebuild it while I wait. Usually under $100. These don't look bad, but it's such a pain to get them out I think I will start out fresh.

Throughout bearing should be an easy local part.

Water pump - send it to The Flying Dutchman. He's done one before for me, his work seemed good. About $100

Fuel pump - this one I need help on. Where can I get a kit? Mine is both fuel and vacuum, I'm guessing all are. Or, a good place to rebuild it if nobody sells the parts.

Debating on the starter and generator. There is a local guy who rebuilds the old ones, but they are easy to remove, and you aren't immediatly stranded if either of them quit, so I may wait.

Ignition parts seem to be available, at least they are listed at rock auto and others.

Carb rebuild. A kit would be nice, are they easily available?

Anything else I should be messing with while it's out? Nothing comes to mind.

Posted on: 2016/12/23 20:57
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Re: Motor/transmission removal and reinstall, 48 coupe
#20
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HH56
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Two highly recommended fuel pump rebuilders are Arthur Gould Rebuilders or Terrill Machine. There are others. You can also get exchange pumps from Kanter or Max Merritt. Kanter and Max also have kits. Another place many have bought kits from is Then and Now Automotivehttp://then-now-auto.com

Daytona Partshttps://daytonaparts.com is probably where most buy their carb kits but Kanter and Max among others carry them too. Daytona did do rebuilds and then stopped. Someone recently said they were doing them again and the website seems to indicate the same. If they are, their carb rebuild services are highly recommended. Carb King is another place several have used.

If you are going to stay 6v then if you have a local old time electric motor shop they can probably do a good job for you. One thing to be aware of if you are contemplating a conversion to 12v is to have the starter converted too. The 6v starters will work on 12v but the extreme speed and torque at the higher voltage seems to be the common denominator from many posters who have had issues with broken or cracked housings. If you have no local shop AER Rebuilders is a place that has done work for several on the forum.

Another thing you might think about is brakes. If you are contemplating any work and in particular tubing replacement, there is a piece of tubing running under the engine which is very easy to reach while the engine is out. Same with the master cylinder.

You might also check the clutch and brake pedals for excess side to side play. The grease fitting is sometimes neglected. If that has happened bushings inside the pedal pivots as well as the shaft wears and causes a lot of slop and frequently lets the pedal arms scrape the side of holes in the toe plate..

Posted on: 2016/12/23 21:13
Howard
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