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I have purchased a 1937 senior pack that has slightly sagging doors and roof damage all from being stored in a leaky structure. I have some roof bows for samples but wondered if there is any help from drawings or books? I thought I saw a sketch once in this forum? Can't find it now. Any help would be appreciated.

1887mike

G'day 1887mike,

Sorry, can't help regarding your query.

But, I invite you to include your '37 Twelve Touring Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry.

You might try contacting Bruce Blevins in Flint, MI
packardblueprint@aol.com

Mike,

Been There, Done That,,,,,Per Bruce, No Packard Blueprints or Drawing remain for the wood bodies. I have exhausted all known libraries and archives.

I am however CAD drawing all wooden pcs as we restore the various years and models on Packard and Studebaker thus far. Sorry I have not had the need yet on the 1506's.

Good luck if you decide to tackle the Job on your own, speaking on the 1920's models, the Engineers had no intention of planning for "Restorations", they were not make to come apart......

Thanks for the input everyone. This is not my first in restoration but it is for Packard's. I am out of my comfort zone but want to do right by this car. Any help and input is greatly appreciated. I plan to ask for it regularly. For now I am moving to the front dragging brake and suspension. I will study up more on the wood replacement/repair.

1887mike

Hello Mike,

I don't get on the Forum very often, so I'm sorry to be writing this so long after the others. Like you, I own a 1937 Twelve that will require a lot of body wood replacement. Mine is a 1036 Club Sedan. I bought it about ten years ago but unfortunately haven't been able to start restoring it yet.

When I got it, it came with a "kit" of pre-shaped wood parts to replace all the wood in the floors, the A and B posts, and some other parts I never identified.

I haven't tried to install any of the wood, but it looks to be of very high quality. If you could contact the company who made it, maybe they could help you. They must have had drawings. I don't know who it was, but maybe someone on this forum would know who it could have been. I think it dates from around 2002-2005.

The picture shows some of the parts for the floor laid out on my driveway, just to see what they looked like.

Let me know if there's any way I can help you...

Ian

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Have any CAD drawings for the 1928 526?

Thank you for responding and yes it does look like quality stuff. Since it was a while ago can I ask what area you bought it from? Maybe I can start there.

Hello,

I'd love to help you, but I don't know where the wood came from. I got it with the car. I can't remember if I asked the seller about it, but I'd say probably not. When I posted the picture, I was hoping some of the others on the Forum might recognize it. I know there are guys on here who know a million times more about Packards than I do.

Sorry...

I've been following your post and it seems to be coming up short with answers. You mentioned two issues, sagging doors and missing roof bows. If that is the scope of you wood problems, you may be able to solve them without drawings.

I've included 2 images. One is for my suggested fix for the doors and the other is for your bows. If you have problems figuring out my sketches PM me your phone number and I'll try to help.

On the doors, you are going to attach a piece of sheet metal to the straight side of the door and another one to the bottom with large wood screws. Then raise the sagging door a little bit more just past the point where it is "un-sagged". Then weld the two pieces of sheet metal together. I would also try to strengthen the other joint with "L" brackets and or by gluing in wood "V" shaped blocks.

On the bows you'll need the help from someone who has a '37 and have them provide you with some measurements.. Looking at the "Bows" diagram, you will need the distances at points A & B at the various points where bows belong in relation from the front of the opening. The average of these two should give you the amount of rise your bows should have when it has the soft top is installed. Therefore, you will want to have a rise that is between 1/4" and 3/8" less to allow for the padding. You will want the curvature of the roof to slope very slightly from the center in both direction (front to back and from right to left. I'm guessing that there is very little rise and is over emphasis in my drawing You should be able to use your existing bow to determine the width and height that your new bows should be. You will want to use a clear straight grain piece of ash (not oak!). These will be glued (I suggest using Titebond III) in using 1/4" spline that goes into the wood at the side of the wood on the body. A slot is cut into the bow to allow it to be slipped into place.

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