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I will look tomorrow. Do you need the 2 or4 terminal?

Dell, I don't have a back up light so I'm thinking I only need the two terminal. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Also how much do you want for that stabilizer rod?

If you need it for the OD safety, you will need the 4 terminal. The 4 terminal switch acts as a set of normally open contacts and a separate set of normally closed contacts. When reverse is selected the circuit for the OD power is opened and the separate circuit for the reverse light is closed. The 2 terminal only has the set which closes when reverse is selected and is just to power the reverse lamp.

There are cars out there without the switch. It was introduced during the 21st series production and was suggested as a retrofit for cars which had exhibited a certain OD problem -- or as added insurance against. Needless to say, there are many cars that never had the upgrade installed. It was factory installed for the early 22nd series 48 cars with R9 OD.

The issue with the R9 OD was sometimes -- usually due to a short or bad governor -- and sometimes due to other reasons, the solenoid would fail to release and drop the unit out of OD when coming to a stop. That was not an issue if the car continued to go forward. The only thing noticeable was a loss of power because it was still in OD. The problem came if the driver shifted into reverse after a stop. Due to the way the internal gearing was done, going into reverse while OD was engaged caused the unit to lock up. If the car didn't want to back up and the driver gave it more power in trying to go, the OD could self destruct. The 4 terminal switch was introduced to positively cut power to the unit so the solenoid would be forced to drop out if there was a short. Unfortunately it didn't cure some of the other reasons the R9 could stay in OD.

The R11 is quite different internally and reverse lockup is not an issue on those so there was no longer a need for the 4 terminal switch. The reverse light was the only function of the switch after the changeover so they returned to the two terminal switch. Dealers could still install the 4 terminal for reverse light only if they needed one and had them in stock.

Thanks, I had it completely wrong LOL. I have an issue from time to time when I put it in reverse it it doesn't want to go anywhere and the clunks real loud and let's loose and then goes and sometimes the shifter just falls out of reverse.
Do you think any of that could be caused by the OD?

I am assuming you have verified you have the R9. If so, one thing needs clarifying about the electrical. With the switch broken, unless the wiring has been bypassed the OD should not be powered. If there is no 6v on terminal one of the OD relay, the OD will be non functional.

It is possible the freewheeling aspect of the OD is coming into play. If the overrunning clutch is worn and slipping and then suddenly catching, that could cause some strange actions.

Suggest you mechanically lock it out of OD by pulling the knob to the right of steering column out all the way. The internal OD parts should become effectively a solid mass of steel with that action and none of the OD components will be in operation. If it still clunks and acts up chances are it is not the OD but something else. One caution on the knob. Don't force anything. The cable is a steel wire inside a steel housing. At the OD end is a steel rod which slides in another piece of steel. If it has had no lube or has been subjected to water, cable or rod end could have rusted. Trying to move a rusted cable by force can lead to damage to the pot metal bracket portion under the dash.

I would suggest you get the shift linkage at the idler in shape and also check for wear on the rod ends and bushings. Once that is correct and adjusted then go back and try the OD again. Depending on how that goes would determine the next step. If it does turn out to be an OD problem, R9 parts are in short supply and expensive. Many have changed out to the R11 when R9s have failed.

Thanks HH56, I really need to get it in my garage and get it in the air and see what's going on underneath also because the OD knob seems really hard to pull and barely moves. Hopefully my 66 Mustang project will sell soon because she taking up the garage 😥

Here is what you need, If I have just the rod its $5.00. You need to make a list and a trip to Sacramento! I have a lot of 48 parts. I will clean and check the switch before I set a price. Dell

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Dell, thank you please let me know if it works, I'm going to get a list together for sure.

switch is now clean and working. OD wires go on terminals closest to the nut. I think $35 is a fair price, if that works for you please let me know.

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Dell, how much do you want for the switch?