Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

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Thanks for the update. Apologies for misleading you on the hairpin clip. That must have been a postwar change.

To add to my very limited knowledge on prewar windows and how they come out, did your levers have a pin arrangement similar to the one in the illustration? One or two pins fasted to the arm with a cupped washer like affair maybe under some tension from a spring?

Is the opening circled between the two slots the keyhole you mention and by turning the window 90 the pins can be slid in the tracks to reach the opening and then release? Will the pins come out the open ends or is there some kind of blocking?

Is the main window frame assy welded together in any way? There is no way to turn the glass inside the door so the vent frame does not have to come out? Does the vent frame leg form one side of the window channel?

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I hesitated putting up this photo because it's a '40 passenger window of a convertible, and a little weird. But you can see that you can get the window up high and pop one roller out of the track, you can move things around to get the second one out, too.

There's nothing attaching the window to the tall guide track (which is part of the vent window frame). It just slides in there.

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no, Thanks any way

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I am curious what point stopped you so you were afraid of breaking something. There is a glass removal procedure starting with the removal of the inside finish moulding on page 4 in the body section of the 51-4 service manual. Where did you run into problems?

Yup, I have the manual. Got the screws off the molding. That was it. It says it comes off. well it doesn't. had to give up. Trim panel would have broken. So I just put the screws back in. I just accept the failure.

I vaguely remember some doors having protrusions or retainers the molding has to be separated from after the screws are removed. If that is the case it takes a bit of persuasion and "springing" the glass side edge of the moulding to release it. I think some of the retaining means may be screwed on and others are stamped into the door metal. In some cases the rubber weatherstrip around the vent window lays over the moulding. If that is the case it could have become stuck or too hard to flex enough so the retainers can be cleared.

I don't have a 51-4 sedan to check but perhaps someone has an exposed door they can examine for any kind of retaining means. If something is there perhaps take a photo or two where the moulding fits that might show any retaining means and another one of the inside of the moulding edge that slips over them.

51-54s usually require the edge of the molding to be sprung in a bit. Use a screwdriver wrapped with a bit of tape. The problem arises when someone has honked down on the screws in the past causing the tabs on the door to bend out a bit and interfere with the edge of the molding. Start at the back edge of the door. Get that back corner to come out and then just work along toward the front.

The panel was put back on only a few years ago after the restoration. The clips are wire expanding retainers. I tried ,they just wont budge.Anymore pressure and I will damage the door panel. There is nothing I can do about it. As I said just gotta live with it .Thanks

Further to Howard's question(s) and Joe's comments, I wanted to wait until I had some pics of the mechanism, as they say 'a picture is worth a 1000 words' (especially MY words!!LOL) The '39 Six, or I should probably say MY '39 Six, as later or earlier production may have changed things up, has a single arm raising apparatus as opposed to the 'scissor' version that seems more common in other vehicles. 3 screws and the vent window comes easily out; the forward roll-up window track drops down (and can be removed via the large hole in the inner door panel) and the big window can tilt and come up (with some coordinated help from the window crank) and once at the top, it can be pulled to the end of the guide track (see photo) and 'popped off' the fixed clip on the raising arm (see 2nd photo)
Reversing the procedure is finicky to try and get everything lined up, but once secure and the screws back in, it wasn't too scary. I coated the track and the 'crank gear quadrant' with waterproof white grease, as well as oiling any other pivot points and moving parts, and the window cranks remarkably smoothly. Overall, a success, I think, and no harm to paint or panels, to say nothing of how good it looks without the ugly crack!! Onward!

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