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Hello chaps

Can I ask how often you have to replace your 6v starter battery?

I've been having problems with starting on my 1930 745 and worked my way through starter motor, solenoid etc but determined that the battery is dead. It reads 6.4v and seems to charge ok but wont provide any current at all.

I suspect that the big current draw on the starter doesn't do it any good.

It's 5 years old and just wondered whether you chaps have to replace yours every so often.

6-7 yrs

Similar to Packard1949, the 6-volt batteries in my '34 Packard average about 7 years before replacement. I use the heavy duty Group 4 NAPA Commercial Truck/Bus battery. Of course with the type of generator regulation you and I have, this is very dependent on how we set up the 3rd brush, and how we make adjustments to it and our driving habits depending on the driving situation.

You say you've "worked your way" thru your starter, how did your results compare with the original factory specifications:

Running free: 50 amp draw, 3000 rpm.
At cranking: 290-300 amp draw at 4 volts
Locked: 650 amp draw at 3.5 volts

A more meaningful indicator of the health of your battery than just voltage at rest would be to use a battery hydrometer and measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell - a battery in excellent condition and state of charge will give readings of 1.275 +/- 0.010

Just a thought on batteries:
In my 1938 120, I've recently replaced my lead/acid battery.
The 6V 830 CCA lasted ~2 years before a growling slow crank.
The physically larger replacement battery is 6V 800 CCA (cold cranking amps) and is very grunty. Reserve capacity seems to be the key.
I have previously used 800s and they typically gave about 6 years under the same conditions, hence the change back.
My conclusion? It's hard to beat size.
The fit in the battery well is close but ok, though the battery recommended by Packard Motor Co is much smaller.
Weather conditions here are generally 10 to 30 degrees C.

The NAPA 7212 referred to above is 975 CCA.

I have my starter modified for 4.5 volts and then use an Optima battery. Turns like it was 12 volts and starts every time. Had it for 21 years for my Caribbean (battery lasted 12 years) and 15 years for my Pacific (battery 13 years). I now did it for my '39 Super. Also every car has Pertronix and never had a problem, period.

I don't have the luxury of a test meter that could measure the cranking current.

The problem manifested itself in the solenoid "chattering" which indicated that, when starting, the voltage dropped so much that the solenoid switched off, then on again around 10 times a second.

Because the solenoid is an addition (the original wiring was straight through the foot-operated switch) I changed the solenoid for a spare one.

Then I changed the main cable to the starter as the previous owner had lashed up two smaller cables in parallel.

I was fooled because the charger indicated good charging current and 6.4v full charge. After a while I noticed that the pump and lights wouldn't work either. I suspected my own wiring work but only realised that the battery had died in front of my eyes when I took the starter out to bench test it (resistance measures as per the spec). Shorting the battery terminals produced absolutely nothing.

I'd not suspected the battery but, time flies as we know, and I realised that its 5 years old.

The charging is ok because I'd previously converted the dynamo to 2 brush and installed a hidden electronic regulator. This was mainly because when I first bought the car, the charging relay was missing.

Kts68,
No comment on your battery issue but I would like to respond to your use of an electronic regulator fitted to replace the original cut out or relay and third brush.
If this allows the generator to charge at much over 8-10 Amps then there is a very high risk of melting solder around the commutator.
The generators on the Packard of this era do not have any cooling and they will overheat if the charge rate is too high.
Also I am interested in your use of a solenoid, my cars still use the original foot switch directly connected to the battery leads which has always worked fine but a solenoid would seem to be a much better way of handling 2-300 amps.

This is the solenoid I use

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/670/category/99

Just looking at my NAPA/Echlin catalog for starter switches and solenoids, the following are illustrated:

7 mechanical starter switches shown, 4 in the 6-volt era.

23 solenoid starter switches, 8 of which are rated for 6-volt service.