Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I have an exhaust leak on my '52 250. I think it is coming from the heat control valve, but maybe just the gasket.
I am having an unbelievable time getting the manifolds off. I can not access the bolts around the center of the manifolds with a socket because there is insufficient clearance. I can barely get an open end wrench on them from underneath and then cant turn it.
I feel like I must be missing something here. Maybe there is a special tool? the manual doesn't reference one. Assuming i do get these off (which I will eventually), how do I ever get a torque wrench on them to torque them down?
I am sure some of you guys have done this before, did you encounter a similar issue?

To get mine off I used "obstruction" wrenches. They are closed ended wrenches shaped like a C

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Another useful item for those tight access situations is a U joint socket set.

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12-pt Flex-Box wrenches also great for tight quarters.

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There is literally no room for a socket, u-joint (which i have) or otherwise, unless it would be very low profile thin walled. The C shaped wrenches are a thought, I'll try those this week end, I have those as well, but I could not get an ordinary box wrench round the bolts. I am beginning to wonder if the exhaust manifold is from a different engine. It almost looks like even when i get these bolts loose, the head won't fit between the two manifolds for removal. of course, someone got them in, but maybe that is why I have an exhaust leak.

I've taken off countless Packard manifolds since a teenager in the '60s and don't recall it ever being an issue or requiring any special tools so to clarify, are you trying to take off only the exhaust manifold or both of them together as an assembly? Taking off as an assembly is the way it is usually done, then disassembling the two as needed after that.

Back on this after a few weeks off for other stuff.
I can deal with all the bolts to remove the manifolds (yes, I am trying to remove them together as a unit) except the two that are at the center of the manifold, essentially on either side of the carb. I have discovered that on the back one of these two (left side of the carb) someone had put a keeper on the bolt. Very hard to see, but I was able to bend the tab back (it broke) and can get a box wrench around the bolt now. I don't see a keeper referenced anywhere - is this supposed to be there? I don't see a good reason for it.
SO, now I can get a box wrench on both of these bolts, but breaking them loose is not happening. I can put some kind of extender on the wrench to break the rearward of the two bolts as I can get to it from underneath, but the front on is tough as there really is no room to extend the wrench and the mount is in the way from underneath.
I should be able to do this without removing the mount and jacking up the engine - is that right?
I have done several flatheads, but this one is driving me crazy.

Hello 41touring,
I have had success in removing the Exhaust and intake nuts by using PB Blaster, or, a combination of acetone and auto trans fluid. I forget the percentages to mix but I'm sure someone will respond. The spot you're in might lead to frustration and in trying to get the nuts loose cause the rusted nut-to-bolt shaft to break. Followed by drilling and extraction of said remnant. Now's the time to apply one of the above solutions and wait days if necessary for the solution to penetrate the corrosion. Heating the stuck nuts will sometime help. If any of the studs left in the engine that the manifolds slide on to have any signs of rusting/pitting I would change the studs so you can tighten the nuts to the proper torque without breaking a weakened stud. Hope this helps.
Steve

For many years Packard and other makes used brass nuts on manifold studs which eliminated this concern. The cost accountants probably got into the act and put an end to that.

Thanks for the tip OD, that fact about brass nuts was supposed to be my last sentence OOOps, I forgot it. When I changed the studs I replaced the nuts to brass too.