Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

What's the od of that driver?...I've found a few online.

There are 2 diameters that are important. The smallest must fit nicely into the bore of the guide so its diameter is about the same as in intake valve stem. The diameter of the second section must be small enough go fit into the guide bore in the block and yet give maximum contact with the top face of the guide, and that section should be long enough to allow the guide to be driven fully out. Search around, I've given these dimensions before, or just make your own measurements. And any decent machine shop should be able to make you one in 30 minutes.

Ok thank u much!

Ok guys..got that bad guide out!!wasn't bad with the right driver!I did find some damage to the block tho.inspecting after removal of guide I found where a bolt from the front of the block in the water pump area has come thru the block and chipped a spot out...this engine was rebuilt in 1983 and I guess they put to long of a bolt in and chipped the block on the inside behind the valve spring area right in the corner of the casting.I guess I'm gonna leave it alone...don't c a crack..just a chip and a thread hole...it's a hard place to c..

Byproduct of a careless mechanic, seen it before and it will happen again I'm sure. Water pump bolts are different lengths for a reason.

That's what I figurerd.glad it's not into a water jacket

Who has a picture of an intake and exhaust valve guide for 49 288?I need to see differences...thanks!

Ok guys..here's a new question...#1 cyl exhaust valve...new guide and valve...valve stem has no clearance..lifter adjustment bottomed out...can I grind off the bottom of stem to get clearance?49 288...block has 11/12/48 date and has ce at end of ser number...have read 48 and 49 service notes and manuals and have not found any info on tipping the valve stems for this model...could the seat be ground d to deep from previous job before I got the car?engine was "overhauled"in 1983..seat looks good no damage..new guide and valve..

There is a gauge tool which temporarily replaces the hydraulic lifter in the tappet to have a fixed point to measure and grind off any excess length to get the needed clearance on those lifters. . I don't know how critical that baseline measurement is on solid lifters since those are adjustable and can accommodate a large value but you should be able to grind a bit of the stem off to provide enough clearance for adjustment. Just make sure the cam is positioned so the tappet and lifter is all the way to the bottom when you measure or grind. The procedure and clearance for hydraulic lifters is in the SM but the final numbers are different for solids.

I don't know if it's possible to grind a seat so deep that you run out of mechanical tappet adjustment, but if it is possible it should be visually very obvious. Lay a straight edge across the block at the seat and just measure the depth to the seat compared to another exhaust valve seat.

If the seat is really that deep the two choices are to shorten the stem or install an insert valve seat and even then you may have to grind the stem. And if the seat really is that deep, you'll want to shim the valve spring to recover the lost tension from the new length.

Forget the hydraulic tappet gauge, it has no application here.

Have you compared the valve length to the original valve?