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modern paint mix for old color needed
#1
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29tons
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My Packard was painted in the 70s with Brunswick Blue from a 1961 vw convertible color. It needs some touch up and the paint supplier that i use says he cannot mix it.To a modern urethane or any other modern paint. I had my dad tried to take the gulf club door to him to take a picture with the paint mix camera and he say that will not work because its not flat enough. I work 6 and 7 days a week and cannot take the car to him do to work.The older guy who worked there could do just about anything i needed as far as color but he retired and there is a new person there. Any Ideas ?

Posted on: 2018/5/20 14:05
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Re: modern paint mix for old color needed
#2
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Owen_Dyneto
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As you're going to do touchup, first thing you need to know is what kind of paint is now on the car.

Posted on: 2018/5/20 16:12
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Re: modern paint mix for old color needed
#3
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Marty or Marston
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Seeing how your car was originally painted in the '70s your paint will either be a lacquer or acrylic enamel. While you can use acrylic enamel to spray over lacquer with proper prep work I probably would not do so if I could get lacquer (In California that is an impossibility unless of course you have a son or two that lives out of state). If you are talking about repairing a few nicks & chips then I would not hesitate to go with the enamel to repair either one. You would never want to spray or touch up with lacquer over enamel.

To determine if you have lacquer or enamel follow the steps below in an area that does not show:

1. Take a clean white cloth, wet it with lacquer thinner and rub a spot of paint to test the reaction.
2. If the color comes off immediately or the spot starts wrinkling, it shows that the type of paint is enamel.
3. But if the color wipes off onto the white cloth only after vigorous rubbing, it is a sign of lacquer paint.
4. If nothing wipes off onto the cloth, the paint is probably urethane based.

Now on to that important question of how can you match the color. My favorite process is to find a small easily removable part (e.g. gas cap door) and send it to TCP Global. Last time I used them it cost about $70. You should be able to order paint from them, make sure that you get your hardener and reducer from them so you know it is compatible with the paint you buy. Don't be afraid to use their house brand as is most probably PPG and will cost you a lot less than the name brand stuff.

I've seen cars that were painted with lacquer that is 50+ years old (that don't have and cracking or crazing) buff out real nice. So don't hesitated to give it a try. Use a very mild cleaning rub cleaner (not a Rubbing Compound). Just be gentle and to not overly aggressive especially on the corners or other sharp areas.

Good Luck

P.S. By the way I think your Golf Club panel should have been more than flat enough to do a color scan on.

Posted on: 2018/5/21 3:13
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Re: modern paint mix for old color needed
#4
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bkazmer
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You need a flat piece to use a spectrophotometer so that the light bounces back to the detector. If there is metallic in the color it's not an accurate way anyway.

A good color matcher will be able to do the match visually, although the "flop" may mean that match is not equally good at all viewing angles.

Posted on: 2018/5/21 7:23
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Re: modern paint mix for old color needed
#5
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bkazmer
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Brunswick Blue appears to be a straight shade (no special effects) blue. Not sure why it would present any special problem, unless the person doesn't have a big enough pigment curve library in their spectrophotometer.

Posted on: 2018/5/21 11:12
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Re: modern paint mix for old color needed
#6
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Leeedy
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Quote:

Marston wrote:
Seeing how your car was originally painted in the '70s your paint will either be a lacquer or acrylic enamel. While you can use acrylic enamel to spray over lacquer with proper prep work I probably would not do so if I could get lacquer (In California that is an impossibility unless of course you have a son or two that lives out of state). If you are talking about repairing a few nicks & chips then I would not hesitate to go with the enamel to repair either one. You would never want to spray or touch up with lacquer over enamel.

To determine if you have lacquer or enamel follow the steps below in an area that does not show:

1. Take a clean white cloth, wet it with lacquer thinner and rub a spot of paint to test the reaction.
2. If the color comes off immediately or the spot starts wrinkling, it shows that the type of paint is enamel.
3. But if the color wipes off onto the white cloth only after vigorous rubbing, it is a sign of lacquer paint.
4. If nothing wipes off onto the cloth, the paint is probably urethane based.

Now on to that important question of how can you match the color. My favorite process is to find a small easily removable part (e.g. gas cap door) and send it to TCP Global. Last time I used them it cost about $70. You should be able to order paint from them, make sure that you get your hardener and reducer from them so you know it is compatible with the paint you buy. Don't be afraid to use their house brand as is most probably PPG and will cost you a lot less than the name brand stuff.

I've seen cars that were painted with lacquer that is 50+ years old (that don't have and cracking or crazing) buff out real nice. So don't hesitated to give it a try. Use a very mild cleaning rub cleaner (not a Rubbing Compound). Just be gentle and to not overly aggressive especially on the corners or other sharp areas.

Good Luck

P.S. By the way I think your Golf Club panel should have been more than flat enough to do a color scan on.


I've mentioned in postings about lacquer and its ability to be revived. But automotive lacquer was not all one thing. There was nitrocellulose lacquer and then there was acrylic lacquer. For instance, 1960s GM cars like my 1964 Oldsmobile Starfire convertible and my Cadillac Eldorado were painted in "Magic Mirror Acrylic Lacquer." But Packards were painted in nitrocellulose lacquer.

Also in the 1970s there were various twists in other kinds of automotive paints. For instance everybody doing restorations by the late 1970s was swearing by Imron.

And while the color in question may not be metallic, many, many people today and in recent years look at mica paints and presume incorrectly that they are "metallic."

And the cloth-with-lacquer thinner trick/test may not always work-especially if the paint has been sealed or clear-coated. Pic a spot that is not easily visible to try your test.

As I have always said, a good automotive paint wholesaler/supplier (especially one with a retail outlet) ought to be able to match anything. My favorite in SoCal in the 1970s and 1980s was Betz Speed & Color (no idea if they are still around).

Posted on: 2018/5/21 19:01
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