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Here's my plan on tracking down my overheating problem; thanks DanL!

I will take the freeze plugs out so that I can force water and air blasts in at those spots as well. I will take a 12 -15 inch long copper tube (1/4 inch dia) and make a nozzle-wand for the end of my compressed air line. I'll make a bend on the end to get down in the crevices too, through the freeze plug holes and the distribution tube also. That is a way to more fully clean out the water flow areas of the block and the bottom of the water jacket that is along the distributor side of the engine block (where the freeze plugs are). The combo of water pressure and air blasts can loosen up most of the gunk. The block and water jacket can get 50 to 70 years of rust, residue, and sludge down in bottom of those crevices. Maybe I will find that the water jacket is fairly free of sludge (but I doubt it). And this way I will know that I have optimal water flow through my engine. Earl (Minnesota Packards tech advisor) also used a de-greasing liquid in the block afterward because the he said it had a scum on the walls of the water flow area.

Priority Packard Parking.

As you can see, my wife's truck and my Packard have priority over my buick, and the 3 inches of snow we received last night drive home the point.

Kev, how's the weather in southern california? Mal, how about summer in Australia? Either of you want some snow?

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Carl,
Can do without the snow thanks. Summer was hot until 2 weeks ago then we had had rain and cooler weather, now starting to warm up again. And the bushfires were in Victoria hundreds of miles south of us.

What is that white stuff all over your car? Did a can of Christmas Flocking explode?

I've had enough flocking snow here in Pennsyltucky this year to last a lifetime!!!

So I took your advice and brought my generator in to have it professionally rebuilt. Generator Specialty Co, Inc in St Paul, MN (800) 990-7692 did an excellent job and also rebuilt my voltage regulator. Everything looks brand new, $125, completed in less than 2 days. They even gave me a Minnesota Street Rod Association discount.

Edit:

I installed the generator and regulator, and it creates 6.8 volts on low idle and over 7.5 on high idle.

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I need help identifying the 'lag' in the response time when i push on the accelerator and the engine accelerating. Notice in the movie below it starts on high idle, i push the gas pedal several times, and then it goes to low idle. Any ideas would be great.

I know there is an exhaust leak in the exhaust manifold that i haven't found yet.


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There are some real engine experts here so hopefully you get more & better response soon.

If engine cold, the high idle is normal until it warms up a bit. When you start the car, as soon as acc is moved the thermostatic spring will snap the choke closed and the fast idle step will be in position to catch the throttle plates. After engine warms a bit, the spring will relax and moving the acc will allow the linkage to move the regular idle step in position. That part sounds normal unless the engine was warm all the time.

The lag sure sounds to me like the accelerator pump is not giving an adequate squirt of gas when acc opened quickly but kinda sounds like there's a miss when you accelerate so maybe other things too..If the carb hasn't been looked at in the many years, might be time for a rebuild.

Thanks Howard! I appreciate it. I had the carb professionally rebuilt last year, but it needs to be tuned a bit. It's frustrating.

I had the electric fuel pump off when I made the video; it doesn't help the delay anyway.

Carl

Sounds like accelerator pump if car not used the plunger will shrink and dry out I would take the pump plunger out. Apply a little stp and soften it expand it in the direction of the bore it rides in to make better contact with sides. Its a easy no expense way to try and solve problem If the plunger is leather as some are this is more than likely the cause of pump not working to its full potential