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I have a 1937 120, and am considering building a pointer so that I can dynamically adjust my ignition timing using marks on the vibration damper vice trying to see the marks on the flywheel (nearly impossible!).

As I was looking at some other manuals, I noticed that from 1942 on, the Packard 8 (successor of my 120) has a stamped steel pointer on marks on the vibration damper.

1. Does anyone know if said pointer will bolt to the 282 in my 1937?

2. If so, anyone have one for sale? (I can move this post into the parts for sale section if the answer to question #1 is yes)

3. Either way, if someone has a 1942 or 1946 Eight (or thereabouts) and can post a closeup of the pointer, that would be very helpful. Thanks!

You can make up a temporary pointer out any junk you have lying around and bolt it to the engine for timing. Of course you have to put the flywheel in place and make a corresponding mark with a paint pen, tape, or whatever. The problem is who knows how much those old dampers oscillate? That's why the timing marks are on the flywheel.

1937 is an easy one. The later pre-war cars require doing it from underneath the fender. And the one piece splash aprons suck. Especially on side mount cars. You might try using a mirror in a dark garage. I've done that. Of course you need to bring the motor around and make sure the timing marks are cleaned off. They used a lead based heavy duty paint so I never used heavy solvents, only soap and water when the paint was still there.

Another trick is to make a jumper wire for the ignition and connect the main harness to the battery terminal of the voltage regulator, start the engine and remove the starter. That gives more access to the sighting hole. Cover the starter cable with a piece of heater hose to prevent a fire.

Packard timing can be arduous but no worse than dealing with 1/4-26 and 5/16-16 fasteners on the earlier cars.

Thanks Tim! I didn't really think about the oscillations of the vibration dampener.

The starter trick is a good one - I may give that one a shot instead!

I was planning on using a bulb on across the points like Owen_Dyneto has shared before to check the static timing, but I also wanted to make sure everything looked good with the engine warmed up and running.

It is an easy job and almost makes the effort worthwhile for the few times you will be setting the timing.

I did it on my 115C. First rolled the engine to No. 1 TDC on the flywheel mark and made sure it was on compression. Next bent a loop in a heavy wire and fastened the wire to the engine front cover with a short piece point to and above the damper. Then marked the damper for TDC and the corresponding BTC and ATC marks from the flywheel marks.

In addition to this I made the distributor locking bolt easier to get to by using a longer bolt and a short piece of 5/16" fuel line tubing.

Here are photos of the before and after of the modification. Sorry, no photos of the pointer.

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Hi Ken,
I too, have fought with trying to see the timing marks and not get a haircut from the fan! My solution: a probe camera. Reasonably priced and 'noninvasive' in as much as you don't have to change anything on the car. Just, as Tim says, make sure your timing marks are clear, clean and visible and aim the probe at the hole. It can be done by one's self as I have done it, but it is definitely a whole lot easier if you have somebody holding and aiming the camera while you shoot the timing light and adjust the distributor. And John (JW), I know you have posted that photo of the adjusting nut extension on the distributor before, but that is a superlative idea. I meant to do that to mine after seeing it the first time; (with your permission!LOL) now I'm GOING to do it!! Thanks. Chris.

Ken,

Can and has been done.

Put a pointer on my '41 120 and one was put on a '40 110, see link, includes photos.

JW - thanks! You're actually who I got the wire idea from, but then I found out that later models had the timing indicator pre built.

Mal - thanks for the pictures, that helps a ton!

When doing static timing I used an ohmmeter which is more accurate than a light bulb. The method is accurate and is very useful for the dual coil systems. When I was setting up motors for initial start up the dynamic was usually very close - almost dead on to this method. Keep in mind not to turn the motor backwards when setting up the marks.

Tim, thanks again! I would love to work in the garage with you for a few days - I'm pretty good at figuring things out, and reading a book and getting stuff done, but I suspect I could learn a ton from working with an expert like you!