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1951 300 Starting Issue
Just popping in
2007/6/18 12:24
From Peachtree City, GA
Posts: 8
Ok, so I have a 1951 300 with a starting issue that I cannot seem to figure out. This car has always started without any issues as long as I have had it (over 15 yrs). She does not get started much as it had a fuel pump leak. I recently rebuilt the pump and it started better than it has as long as I have owned it. The last time I started it, she started without hesitation, I pulled her out of the garage, started down the driveway in gear and she stalled. I put the car in neutral to start it and nothing, car will not crank or anything. It does not make any noise when I push the pedal down, I feel like there used to be a clicking noise when I pushed down the pedal to start before, however now there is no clicking. I have tapped on the starter and the solenoid as some have suggested. I have checked the wiring at the key switch behind the dash. I have checked everything but there is no mechanical movement any more when I push the pedal to start it. I am at a loss.... I donít know if I should pull the starter and solenoid, if there is a problem with the ultramatic safety switch, If there is an issue at the carb... not even sure where to start on this one. Worst part is, Iím moving in a few weeks and need to get this thing on a trailer to move it... any help or suggestions would be so greatly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance.

Posted on: 5/12 18:47:22
Patrick J. Guerin
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Re: 1951 300 Starting Issue
Forum Ambassador
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15638
Assuming the battery is good and battery cable connections are clean and tight you can use a length of jumper wire to bypass the carb start switch and the neutral safety switch to see if the engine will crank without those switches in the circuit.

Use a wire that is about the same thickness as that already connected to the solenoid top terminal or about 14ga. You do not need to remove the existing wire on the terminal as it just goes to the carb starter switch and will not connect to anything else as long as the accelerator is not pushed down.

Temporarily run the jumper wire from the hot battery terminal and just touch it to the small terminal on top of the solenoid (make sure the Ultramatic is in park) and the engine should at least crank and start if the key is on. If it does crank then one of the switches is bad, out of adjustment, or has become disconnected.

If it cranked you can troubleshoot to see where the problem lies. Power flow is from the ign switch, down to the neutral safety switch located on the drivers side of the transmission, out of that switch and then back up to one side of the carb starter switch and out of the starter switch to the solenoid. With the key on you can use a volt meter and follow the power to and thru each switch. If you lose the 6v (as measured to ground) after going thru a switch that switch or wire is the suspect.

If still nothing happens with the jumper then the battery, a cable or the solenoid is the likely suspect. If you have one of the green knob battery cable disconnect switches in use those are notorious for failure when used on 6v cars.

Posted on: 5/12 19:50:29
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