Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Sender? You mean the windshield?

The windshield I linked to is the cheapest I could find. Add in shipping and a new windshield weatherstrip and it gets pricey quick.

I have to get the rust addressed first though. Still looking at my options there.

Dropping the fuel tank

Got some time to work on the Panama last night after the kids were in bed. I removed all the items from the trunk, which consisted of whatever parts the previous owner had removed. Lots of trim, the door panels (they need to be replaced), seat belts, and some other miscellaneous stuff. I put all the stuff on some shelf space that I'm reserving for the car, and will label and organize all of it.

The gas tank has been leaking slowly but steadily. It stinks up the garage and drives my wife nuts, so dropping the tank was next on my list after stripping the interior.

The fuel line thankfully disconnected without any issues. I removed one of the clamps on the flexible breather hose and took the hose off one end, so that I could get it past the leaf spring. The strap bolts also didn't give me any issues.

The leak is coming from around the drain plug "collar". The plug appears to be rusted in place (probably cast iron instead of brass), and the collar has broken loose from the tank. It spins around with no seal.

The rest of the tank appears to be in good condition(the pictures make it look worse than it actually is). The entire bottom of it is coated in some sort of thick undercoating that is beginning to flake off. I'll probably remove all that and repaint the tank.

My question is what is the best way to fix this? If I can get the plug out and replace with brass, can I weld the collar back on? Or is it better to remove and replace with a different bung like this: https://www.ebay.com/p/8010758841?iid=281695130796&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=281695130796&targetid=918203029388&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033668&poi=&campaignid=9338046716&mkgroupid=94993973219&rlsatarget=aud-622524042678:pla-918203029388&abcId=1139336&merchantid=101818749&gclid=CjwKCAjw_qb3BRAVEiwAvwq6VlrYUX6hiL9lpJ9VE9f5rNnSQW2uDchWCDbf1zK47l54hCOszlEjGRoCR30QAvD_BwE

Attach file:

---

  (274.98 KB)


  (484.32 KB)


  (322.64 KB)

Can the fuel tank even be welded?

Also, the car had no gas cap. I see that Kanter has them, but was curious if the car requires a specific cap or is it generic?

The fuel tank can be welded, but it's a dangerous job doing it yourself if you're not familiar with it. Probably the easiest way to fix it, and know that it is right is to either take it to an old-fashioned radiator shop, have them boil it out, repair any leaks, and re-seal (cheaper option), or find someone to "ReNu" it.

https://www.gastankrenu.com/

I did that on the tank on my 115, and it turned out great.

The 51-56 tanks were reproduced. Auto City Classicshttps://www.autocityclassic.com/packard-gas-tanks/ may still have them and if so, the cost of a repro might be worth considering or at least comparing to the cost of having yours reworked.

If yours needs more than a "boiling out" which could be done at most local radiator shops then a repro will definitely be less expensive than the Renu process. That process is currently the only option for cars older than 51 and if the repros are all gone then that will be your best option too.

Motor City Classics as linked above still has them and they also have the sender although the latter is difficult to find on their site. It is the same sender as used on some Ford models and is listed that way. If your tank is that badly rusted (looks unrepairable to me), likely the sender is bad to so you might as well replace both.

Thanks everyone. There is a radiator shop about an hour from me that I might talk to and at least get an estimate. The repro tanks are still available from Kanter I believe, just pricey. I have to be aware of the budget, so if it's not a lost cause then I'd prefer to keep the original tank.

The pictures make the tank look terrible, but it's not. I'll get some better pictures. What you are seeing from the few pics I posted is the undercoating that was applied flaking off. The undercoating is all discolored brown as well from mud and dirt. underneath (from what I've seen) appears to be solid metal.

Also, how would I know if the sender needs to be replaced? From the outside it looks fairly new, but I haven't taken it out to see inside.

-Kevin

Those sold by Motor City Classics supposedly fit better (Kanter's have a bad bend to the filler that requires a mandrel to bend to fit) and they have a notch under the filler cap that causes leaks. I've not yet tried either one so this is based on other postings made here on this site although I do have a Motor City Classics tank waiting for me at my shop.

Last I heard Kanter was out of stock on the tanks and not expected to get any more but if that has changed hopefully someone will update.

On the sender, check the ohm reading with an ohmmeter placed between the terminal and the flange that mounts to the tank. Empty, the sender will read in the neighborhood of 73 ohms and full, around 10 ohms. When moving the float, if the meter is jerky or if there is a complete loss of a resistance reading at any spot there is a good possibility the phenolic material which supports the resistance winding has warped and the wiper is periodically losing contact or gaining extra resistance because of poor contact. The sender may work everywhere except in the zero ohm spot which would cause the gauge to drop to empty until the level in the tank moved past the area. If the readings are erratic, more than likely the problem will get worse and you will eventually replace the sender.

When you replace the tank some have ran into poor ground issues with the original support straps causing sender problems. Many have found it beneficial to drill a small hole in the excess metal of the middle tank flange at one of the corners and add a ground wire between the tank and the frame.

It might also be worth your while to make an opening in the trunk floor while the tank is out if you decide not to replace the sender. Much easier than pulling he tank again.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=203072#forumpost203072

Don and Howard, excellent information. Thank you. I'll check the resistance tonight when I get home and see what it shows. Good idea also on creating an access hole in the trunk also. I'll look into that.

-Kevin