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327 Questions
Just popping in
Joined:
6/25 11:42:30
From Detroit, MI
Posts: 9
I'm replacing the water pump on my 54' Clipper De Luxe. I noticed when I removed the bolts that there was some sort of RTV on them and they seem to go into a water jacket. Is this necessary? If so, what's the recommended product? No mention of this in the service manual. Though the manual is vague in general.

Who carries distributor parts? RockAuto seems to have the cap and rotor for the distributor I don't have. Also wouldn't mind knowing if the AC Delco plugs are alright to run in these cars or a different is preferred and why.

My cylinder head says thunderbolt on it. I've noticed other Packards of this vintage don't have this. Is there something different about the cylinder head or engine other than the cosmetics of the casting?

Posted on: 7/17 22:31:58
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Re: 327 Questions
Home away from home
Joined:
2008/3/21 18:20
Posts: 2287
You will notice that for two of the four bolts the water pump is counterbored to accept a copper washer under the bolt head. With those in place and a little antiseize on the threads you will be fine.

All cylinder heads from 51-54 except the 54 359 aluminum heads say Thunderbolt. It means---nothing. Just as much as the Kaiser engines that said "Supersonic" on them.

You have an Autolite dist.? Napa CS720A points ,AL869 condensor. AC R45 plugs work fine.

Posted on: 7/18 4:22:39
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Re: 327 Questions
Home away from home
Joined:
2008/9/29 7:39
From Cordova, TN
Posts: 1274
Not to disagree with Ross but to add, he is light years ahead of me and has done many, many more replacements then I would ever dream of. I had also just replaced my water pump and after back flushing. I put a thin coat of RTV (Silicone)on the gasket and on the two bolt holes where water comes out, I used shellac on those bolts and those two bolts normally have copper washers on them. As of today no leaks and counting.
Wes

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Posted on: 7/18 6:58:19
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Re: 327 Questions
Just popping in
Joined:
6/25 11:42:30
From Detroit, MI
Posts: 9
Ross, thank you for your reply. The manual says to torque those bolts to 25-30 lb/ft. No issues with using ant-seize and that torque spec or should I be using a different torque spec with anti-seize on there?

I do have an AutoLite distributor. Thanks for the tip on point and condenser. Who can I get the cap and rotor from? I ordered LM49 AC Delco plugs. Are those the same as the R45's?

Wesley, thanks for sharing as well. Are there issues if I don't use RTV on the gasket between the water pump and block?

Posted on: 7/18 8:11:48
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Re: 327 Questions
Home away from home
Joined:
2008/9/29 7:39
From Cordova, TN
Posts: 1274
scauzone, just like to put a film on the gasket for a piece of mind. When I was working on my race bikes, I would use grease when replacing covers. Made the mistake of using RTV and also to much and it squeezed out and plugged some oil feed passages, ended that engines life. Live and learn!
Wes

Posted on: 7/18 8:37:15
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Re: 327 Questions
Just popping in
Joined:
6/25 11:42:30
From Detroit, MI
Posts: 9
Any issue with the plugs I purchased?

Posted on: 7/20 11:08:23
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Re: 327 Questions
Just popping in
Joined:
6/25 11:42:30
From Detroit, MI
Posts: 9
Rebuilt water pump, new belt, new gasket, fresh fluid, and new reproduction 7PSI radiator cap installed.

No leaks, however I did notice the tiniest bit of fogging on the base of the windshield. Is it possible that the old cap was worn out and with the new added pressure the heater core is leaking?

So the question is should I go back to the original cap and/or what are my replacement/repair options for the heater core?

Posted on: 8/7 10:00:23
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Re: 327 Questions
Forum Ambassador
Joined:
2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
Posts: 15937
7# was stock until 53 when they made a 12# available for some engines and that was retrofittable to some earlier models. Both 7 and 13 were available for 54 and the 13 could also be installed on earlier "if conditions warranted". If you are seeing fog on the windshield that is most likely a leaking heater core with the vapor coming up thru the defroster openings and will probably only get worse.

To remove the core you will most likely need to remove the entire heater box unless by some miracle someone has been in there before and left out two small sheet metal screws on the back of the box next to the firewall. With those screws in place it is impossible to remove the upper half of the box to expose the core without a complete removal of the assy.

On 51-4 models the heater assy is held by studs and nuts accessible only from inside the car and possibly a sheetmetal screw on the engine side. The service manual accessories section has a few pages on fresh air heater installation and shows where the nuts are located. After disconnecting the hoses and Bowden cable operating the air flapper in the air vent assy just reverse the install procedure to remove the unit.

Once you have the core out a radiator shop should be able to repair or replace it. As far as I know there are no NOS cores available so best you could expect would be a used core in whatever condition that might be in. If the car has an underseat heater the core in that could also be in poor condition. The rubber seal on the thermostatic valve stem is also a known source of leaks but usually when that item is the culprit the passenger side carpet pad is damp or if the leak is bad there is unexplained liquid found on the ground under the front door area on the passenger side.

Posted on: 8/7 10:50:37
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Howard
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