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When standing for many years not being used, can it get (what they call), a standing cease up? The classic mechanic over here mentioned something about being able to check by simply putting a spanner on the engine, you guys know what he means?
From what I understand, it's a very expensive job to fix.

Here in the States we have a lot of guys wanting to learn the panel beating trade. I know of at least one who went to England to learn the rudiments of the trade.

I want to say this kindly but the best way to accumulate and absorb automotive information is to get away from the computer and spend some time in the shop, make some mistakes and get on with it.

"...check by simply putting a spanner on the engine..."

Here's the procedure:
REmove the spark plugs. squirt about a teaspoon of oil in all cylinders. Place an appropriate wrench or spanner on the bolt in the center of the front crank pully and slowly rotate the engine by hand using the wrench.

Roatate the engine AT LEAST 2 full revolutions. IT should turn rather easy without any binding. IF it binds up do not force it.

Report back your findings.

Motors can get "stuck" from just sitting. Surface rust can develop on the cylinder walls and cause the rings to get stuck. My 327 was like that. I had to spray a bunch of penetrator down in the cylinders and let it set for several days before it would free up.

Use a wrench on the crank pulley. Do not use the starter until the motor can be fully turned multiple revolutions by hand/wrench.

I'd think everyone doing this has already pulled the spark plugs, but if not, and just a good safety precaution, be sure to disable the ignition system before ever putting a wrench on the front pulley and attempting to turn the engine over. The key switch might be totally reliable, but I'd still pull the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap!

Great answers and help from
BigKev
Owen
PackardV8

Just goes to show what a wonderful forum this is. Just goes to show, this forum is for everyone, be-it Pro or amature. I can't wait until next March/April when Ross's 1954 Convertible project arrives to uk. Gives me time to look for items on my shopping list. Takes about 2/3 weeks to arrive I believe. Everyone will get a full progress report.

Of the 359 engine, how does this compare to the 327? any major pros or cons?

I have logged all answers, for future reference. when I can get over to the one of the meets, sure would love to have a beer with some of you guys, and more shopping for project no dought.

Are the Cam arm and points a easy affair to fix or replace?

Of the 359 engine, how does this compare to the 327? any major pros or cons?

Other than the obvious difference is displacement and power, the 327 9-main bearing engine is essentially the same as the 359. Only possible issue is that the 359 used an aluminum cylinder head which after all these years is prone to warping and cracking. But almost any of the cast iron heads will fit. I had a 359 (Patrician) as a nearly everyday car back in the 60s thru the early 80s. A fine car that gave well over 100,000 miles of reliable service.

I think most will agree that the engine basically is quite good. Aside from the changes to make it a 359, it was almost identical to earlier ones. I think most will also agree that the aluminum head was probably the weak link. If you have or get one, take care of things to keep the head in good shape. Many of the engines had the aluminum replaced with the older cast iron head if a problem developed.

Can a 327 be made into a 359 easily? Bore? Stroke? Both?

Don't know, but you'd certainly have to start with a 9-main 327 which is far less common than the 5-main 327. The bore is 1/16 larger and the stroke is 1/4 longer so you'd need the crank. A check of the parts book will determine what other parts are unique but if you have to shop for a 359 crankshaft and a 327 9-main block, you might as well find a 359 motor.