Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

I was able to get off work a little early today, so I worked on the car this afternoon.

Pulled the oil pan and pulled all of the pistons. Everything looks... ok? I found a piece of ring in #5, and some scoring in #2 cylinder (see attached). I think I can probably hone it out, but I'm not really sure, so I'm open to thoughts. My block has a cracked water jacket, so I don't want to spend any money on machining if it doesn't need it. When I did a compression test a few years ago, the numbers were fairly uniform. The main reason I'm opening up the engine (other than wanting to do everything right, or close to, the first time) is that it smoked quite a bit, all of the time. I should just get a new engine, but since this one seems serviceable, I thought I would learn on it, and an in-frame overhaul seemed like just the ticket. Found a few descriptions on this forum, and it seemed like a project I could handle.

How do I tell if the pistons are OEM?

Also, I'm going to pull the valves next. Are there valve guide seals, or just valve guides? How do I pull those?

Thanks in advance for your help- I'm into new territory.

Any tips on brand for a ring compressor and valve spring tool? I was just going to use a local auto parts store or summit racing, but I wasn't sure if I should get something special for the valves since it is a side valve engine.

Last question- Kanter for parts, or are there other options. At a minimum I am planning on piston rings, rod bearings, and a timing chain. More if required. I'll get my gaskets from Terril Machine in Texas- I've had good luck with them.

Thanks!

Attach file:

---

  (87.35 KB)


  (81.83 KB)


  (89.08 KB)


  (50.68 KB)

The valve spring compressor should look something like this:


I got mine off ebay.
I've never removed the valve guides but I believe they are usually driven halfway down into the lifter gallery, clipped off with a cold chisel and then driven out the rest of the way. If I'm off base, I'm sure someone will be along to correct me.

Edit: If you have the lifters out, you should be able to just drive the guides completely out into the block.

Attach file:

---

  (33.98 KB)

Regarding the pistons, they are the original autothermic type with a steel insert to control thermal expansion and permit a tighter fit in the cylinder bore.

Thanks for all of the information.

Valves- I got all of the valves out and cleaned up. I ended up using a rented Autozone spring compressor- it worked just fine with the straight jaws. After cleaning up the valves, they are all straight and crack free. The margin on all the valves looks good, so I don't think they have been ground a million times. I did see some corrosion that concerns me. Also a few extra markings on the head of the valve. #1, #2, and #4 intake, plus #3, #5, and #6 exhaust. #1 exhaust valve also shown for comparison. These corroded areas are all on the top of the valve- does that mean I just shouldn't worry about it? #3 exhaust seems corroded on the seating side as well.

I had two broken valve springs and a third that isn't factory. #1 intake and #6 exhaust were broken, and #5 exhaust is not stock. Smaller diameter, larger wire, taller, and a different color. I'll be replacing those three, at a minimum.

Valve guides- the valve guide for the #2 exhaust valve is lifted. At first I thought it was modified- there are some service bulletins that show clipping the exhaust valve guides, but it looks like it just pushed up. Should I just tap it back down, replace it, or replace all of the valve guides? I don't have the special Packard tools- what should I use to do the work?

Pistons- At first, I thought all of my pistons were good. They appear to be factory, they are stamped 9 3, and then most are stamped D, with two stamped C. The D means they are 0.0015" over, and C means 0.001" over, according to the service manual. But... number 2 has two chunks missing from the top edge, and both 2 and 3 have a lot of corrosion on them. I don't see any evidence of a leaking head gasket, so maybe this is from a previous issue? Should I replace either one? Again, my goal is to do no machine work to the block, because of the crack on the water side. There is a also a chunk of missing material the size of a small pebble next to one of the oil pan holes. Not a big deal.

There is also a small piece of mystery material. I thought it was piston ring, but none of the pistons are missing anything. I found it on the block between 5 and 6. Any idea what it is? It is thinner than the #2 ring and thicker than the oil ring retainers.

Attach file:

---

  (82.69 KB)


  (87.48 KB)


  (62.13 KB)


  (64.19 KB)


  (65.25 KB)


  (61.97 KB)


  (63.45 KB)


  (92.45 KB)


  (81.99 KB)


  (89.06 KB)


  (101.99 KB)


  (84.74 KB)


  (70.31 KB)


  (70.03 KB)


  (87.22 KB)

Quite a while since I've posted. I had a trip out of town, and work has been picking up. I have received nearly all of my parts- I just need to order valve guides, and I'm ready to re-assemble to at least a short block!

I did find a valve guide driver:

http://www.amazon.com/Manual-Valve-Guide-Driver-11/dp/B008CP6M6G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413852575&sr=8-4&keywords=11%2F32+valve+guide+driver

I may need to get it machined down where it sits on the boss, but it is at least the right diameter.

I did not realize the cylinders were sleeved... or at least mine appear to be. Were all Packards sleeved? If not, when did they stop?

I am driving down to Utica on Saturday to pickup my exhaust manifold and fender and to meet a fellow Packard enthusiast. Looking forward to meeting someone as crazy about these cars as I am.

No Packard auto engines were sleeved.

Thanks! That would explain why I couldn't find anything in the literature about it. I did find where some of the aero engines were sleeved, which makes sense.

I'll do some more cleaning tomorrow, and give my ridge reamer a try. I'll post pictures if I run across anything especially unusual.

I removed the valve guides from No. 2 and 3 cylinders. New tool works well. I also bought one that goes in an air hammer; I might return it if the rest come out as easily as these four did. The No. 2 intake valve guide that was way too high appears to have been an exhaust valve guide, and the No. 2 exhaust valve guide appears to have been an intake. Saying this based on lengths- they are opposite of what was in No. 3 cylinder, and opposite what the book says. The No. 3 exhaust valve guide was cracked. I'm not sure if that happened during removal, or I just couldn't see it before.

I'll pull the rest out this weekend after I measure the depth, and clean out the valve galley.

My ridge reaming went well, although I was pretty nervous about dropping a cutting tool into a 75 year old motor. Having now reamed cylinder ridges, I understand why it is needed. Also feel pretty dumb about thinking the cylinders were sleeved- it is just buildup!

Attach file:

---

  (80.44 KB)

Thanks to a great host, I had a wonderful day yesterday with Mohawk Valley Lunch Club- I saw a very exclusive collection full of beautiful cars. Good motivation to keep working on mine!

I did get all of my valve guides out- you can see from the pictures that several of them did not want to leave. Some of them did come out extremely easily- almost tapping out. I still have to clean out the valve galley. I thought I was so clever by finding a valve guide driver that fit into an air hammer, but it only worked on the easy ones. All of the tough ones required many stiff blows from a manual hammer. Damaged one valve seat- details elsewhere.

Also picked up some new tools- body hammers and dollies, rolling pin punches, a parts washer, and a blasting cabinet. All good stuff.

Next step will be installing new valve guides, then I need to get the valve seat fixed. I am still exploring options.

Also picked up a beautiful NOS fender and great looking exhaust manifold. It is the later style manifold, so not correct, but it will be perfect for touring, and if somehow a junior Packard is ever graded like a full classic I'll try and get mine repaired. Not holding my breath. Pictures of the new parts later.

Attach file:

---

  (71.71 KB)


  (78.50 KB)

I have not been documenting much on the blog, but I have been working through some valve seat issues. Self-inflicted.

Everything documented here, linked for my later reference:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=15066&forum=1

I am going to pull the crank and cam, hone the cylinders, and then send it to the machine shop for the valve seat installation. I will probably also have him fix the crack using lock and stitch.

Oh- and I need to get a broken head stud removed. I'm hoping the other 22 come out cleanly. I am going to get a stud removing tool tomorrow- the two nut method did not work.

Distributor will go to AER later this week and the carb to Daytona.