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Thank you all for the help and info.

I'd like to point out that the pertronix runs great when used how they specify...with non-metallic wires. I have several thousand trouble free miles on it. The flamethrower coil was decent too until it cracked. Not sure about this oil filled cheap unit.

I was getting the pertronix to work with a 1.5ohm coil and solid wires, but it seems the .5 ohm coil and solid wires is the ticket for it not to work (and according to them, to fry it.)

I'm willing to go back to points, but i don't know what coil type would be correct to try with that setup. Ohm rating that is. I want to try each setup in complete matching correct ignition sets to see if there's any idle and top end difference. Probably not, i'm probably chasing a fuel issue, but i'd like to rule ignition out.

Anyone know what ohm coil you're using on your points setup?

REAL world conditions the ohm rating is a search for Utopia. Go to an auto parts strore and try to get such coil as specified in OD's list provided above.

If all else fails then get a coil for 54 and earlier Chevy, Ford or plymouht. Auto parts store SHOULD be able to understand Chev,F or C.

TO-20 TO 30 Ferguson tractor coils.

It's a 6 Volt coil. The ohm ratings a will vary a little bit even with in the same coil partt number from coil to coil.

Let me put it this way. Your concern about the ohm rating is just chasing the wind.

Put a 6 volt 54 or earlier Chev coil on it.

It's that simple.

To answer your original question about the ohm rating of my 6v application coils:

I have no idea. Never tested them to see. I have no problems. Indian, Ferguson, Packard many others over the years.
What's with this ohm thing anyway??? Coil either works or it doesn't. IT's on or it's off. It's green or it's red. What's the dealeo???

BTW as a convenience:
Whatever coil is used watch the size of the + and - terminals on coil. Some coils have larger threaded studs than others. Worse case u'll have to change terminal ends on the wires.

Cortcomp, you are probably already aware of this, but more important than watching the coil terminal sizes is to make sure the terminals are connected correctly. As you most likely already know, positive ground battery, positive terminal to the distributor and negative terminal to battery source, and vice versa. I too hate it when "improvements" don't work out. Back to basics. Take care.

(o{I}o)

In general, there is nothing wrong with "improvements". The bootom line is that one wants an improvement that has been TESTED!!! Commonly available PRODUCTION parts or NOS or NORS or COMMONLY AVAILABLE aftermarket parts are just fine. Some exceptions involve parts that are not subject to wear or any significant deterioration.

So much AFTERMARKET hot rod equipment, latest and greatest discoveries, etc are often (tho not necessarily) just alot of gimmick and nonsense especialy in electrics and fuel and exhaust.

In some cases we are often forced into trying 'improvements' due to the near nonexistence of oem, nos or nors parts or exhorbitant expense of such parts.

I use a stock coil, stock points, non-resistor spark plugs, and Packard 440 copper core ignition wires. The 1950 Packard starts up every time with its stock 6 volt system.

I was told by some experts that a common mistake is to use resistor plugs and resistor wires on a 6-volt system. High resistance will cause a big voltage drop and maybe no sparks. All this resistor stuff was invented for more modern vehicles using higher voltage ignition systems.

I am aware of the polarity issue on the coil, but i'll double check it tonight. I'll check the spark plugs too, to make sure they're not resistor type. I was under the impression that solid core wires were all non-resistance type by their nature.

The resistance of the coil would seem to matter as different ohm rated coils are called for in different applications. I'm just curious if that was causing me an issue. I don't care if you guys don't think it will matter.

Also, i'm running a basic 12v .6ohm coil, i never dug to deeply to find a 6v coil for this car as it always worked great with different 12v coils. I believe we were discussing this on a thread not too long ago. That may be an issue.

I'd like to point out again to the people pointing to the pertronix unit as an issue that it works PERFECTLY when installed as their instructions say, with a .6ohhm coil and regular non solid core wires. (if you're using an ignitor I on a 6v system. Ignitor II and III call for other ohm coils, usually a 1.5ohm one). It's only when i apply my visual "improvements" that i run into trouble. Of course i want to have my cake and eat it too, but that's not working

I'll hit napa tonight and see what they say for a coil, and i'll get some points and condensor and a couple caps and a rotor.

Also, this distributor does not have the flexible points power wire under the cap, the screw on the outside connects solidly on a plate witht he points on the inside. So that's not an issue unless it's shorting out, i'll try it tonight.

Thanks all for the help and advice so far. I'll hook up my 6v power supply and see if i can't bench test the distributor with one spark plug and a new coil tonight after rebuilding it, if parts are in stock.

Not much to add, seems you have it under control. But I think 12-volt coils come in two flavors, those for use with an external resistor and those with an internal resistor.

And solid metal-core high tension wires are non-resistor type.

Also, this distributor does not have the flexible points power wire under the cap, the screw on the outside connects solidly on a plate witht he points on the inside. So that's not an issue unless it's shorting out, i'll try it tonight.

If that's the case, how does the vacuum advance rotate the moveable plate the points mount on, independently of the distributor body?? If I'm reading you right, something is very wrong - the plate with the points must be able to rotate freely against the fixed plate.

A really RARE ignition problem I encountered only once involved the flexible ground wire from the moveable plate to the fixed plate. It was too long and looped upwards enough for the high tension from the rotor to jump to ground there rather than to the spark plugs. Worth a quick look.

Photo is 56 Delco, typical in most regards to the earlier units. Note the hole at about 5:30 with the felt exposed - for oiling, often ignored, as is the felt in the shaft center. Many Auto-Lites used a grease-packed ball bearing for the breaker plate rotation. When I put points in a car I've not maintained, I usually strip the distributor down completely to check for wear, movement of the centrifugal advance mechanism, and lubricate. There are several places that require sparing but regular lubrication besides the shaft oiler or grease cup. Perhaps this link is old-hat, I've posted it before.

http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=861

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When the vac advance kicks in, you can see the entire dis. rotate...the vacuum advance unit pulls on an arm that rotates the whole body. I'm pretty sure the autolite dist is on there now. I have two autolites (i think they're for 327 motors) and the original delco off of the car in the first place. One autolite is points, the other pertronix.

Pertronix does not make a kit for the delco as the breaker plate is on ball bearings and moves inside, and their adapter plate wouldn't work there. I like the autolite better because it's a snap to adjust timing (just that one screw) and it's neat to watch it jump around when reving during a tune up. Trivial, i know.

Also, i believe the autolite would have come with the 53 nine main 327 that's in the car now. If there's a difference in timing between the two, it must be minimal. Both the delco and autolite ran fantastic in the 288 i had in the car before.