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As others have found when removing the seals with shaft in place, be very careful not to damage the shaft. Whichever method you choose, it is easy to gouge or scratch the side of shaft in getting the old one out. A damaged shaft either ruins the new seal when the lip slides over the damage while being installed or else provides a rough surface so the new seal cannot do a proper job. End result is a new seal leaking about as much as the old one.

Regarding the accessibility of the Ultramatic dipstick, enter the words "Ultramatic Trap Door" in the search bar on the upper right of this page and click on "Find." It will bring up a thread from October of 2012; click on that and you'll see this topic was thoroughly discussed.

I wouldn't recommend filling it through the top vent. I found it was too easy to overfill it and the overage spilled out from under the dipstick cap when the fluid warmed up, making a bit of a mess. I think that's much less likely to happen when filling it at the dipstick housing as the shop manual recommends.

Hello does anyone here now where i could get some Castel nuts that hold the drums to the dif and front spindel ?? and or what size thread they are ???
its a 2472 24th series 51 touring sedan with ultramatic and L8 327 the csting on the diff is 403121
Thanks in advance
Aaron

Are these the nuts you are asking about? If yes, then the 2472 body uses the 2402 chassis and parts manual says the front and back nuts are both 3/4-16 thread on that chassis. Not sure what outlets you have in Europe that might sell US thread nuts but you might be able to get them locally. Modern nuts might have a bit less depth though and you would probably need an extra thick washer behind to be able to reach the cotter key hole. I did find that to be a problem in replacing one of mine.

Possibly one of the Packard vendors Kanterhttp://www.kanter.com/packard/ or Max Merritthttp://www.maxmerrittauto.com would have the Packard items.

If those are not the nuts you need perhaps you could post a photo.

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G'day Aaronw1970,
to PackardInfo.

And I invite you to include your '51 300 Touring Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry here on PackardInfo.

Yes that is it exactly and the max site had them now i wait to get them ive finished off the the brakes so now i will see if it will start after i found this car sitting for almost 49 years in a littel old ladys garage it was her late husbands car its got a 45 record player inside that works its got 15000 miles on the odomiter her husband started to redo the brakes so the car sits on jack stands for 49 years without touching the ground

Your 9/16 reply to removing the seals in the transmission suggest drilling two .108 holes. Drilling these holes seems to be very difficult. Maybe a right angle dentist drill might be used but location the drill point would be very difficult. Did you drill from the top of the transmission? Remember only the '51-400 has no access plate on the top. I believe all other Ultramatics used do have this. Comment?

Don't believe there is a top cover on any models past 23rd series so everything is from below.

It is not the easiest procedure but you can drill at an angle. Unfortunately the smallest 12" extended length bits are 1/8 and IMO, too large so a smaller bit held in a 9" bit extension is recommended. Also is advisable to dimple the seal so the bit doesn't skid plus hold the bit in the dimple with your free hand as you drill. I believe some have also had success with a Dremel type tool. Don't remember if they mentioned if it was the straight tool or had the 90 degree head. I would be interested in hearing how others have done it but take care to avoid scratching the shaft whichever method you try.

Here is an example of an extension sold by McMaster-Carr. The shank is the same for bits up to 5/32 but you need a different collet for each size bit. With the diameter of the seal, I would go with 3/32 but certainly not much past the .102 you mention. An extension and collet would be around $25.

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