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Fuse block/saddle repair...
#1
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D-train
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Hi,

I have a problem in my fuse block. One of the saddles for the glass cylindrical fuses has an ear broken off. The previous owner had rigged something up with a bit of aluminum foil, to pin the fuse in. I'm trying to come up with something a little better.

I assume that years ago, they probably made a "fix" for something like this. But I realize that if there was a fix or kit, those are long obsolete.

This isn't on a Packard, but on my '69 Galaxy. My "future" fix is to swap the fuseblock from my parts car into this car. But that's when I get to stripping the car down. ...hopefully next year.

Any suggestions would be helpful. I can take a pic if necessary.

Thanks,

Mark

Posted on: 2019/8/19 12:38
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Re: Fuse block/saddle repair...
#2
Home away from home
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John
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you might buy an inline fuse holder and route the wires around that fuse holder for now till you change it later.

Posted on: 2019/8/19 13:10
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Re: Fuse block/saddle repair...
#3
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HH56
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No clue what type fuses Ford used and how all the holders are connected to the buss bar providing the voltage in or the terminal for an output connection. If an inline holder is not an option and the Ford fuse block is similar to a 55-6 Packard fuse block you could probably drill out a rivet to release the broken holder. If Ford used a typical 3AG / AGC or SFE type fuse which is 1/4" in diameter there are different style fuse blocks sold all over ebay and maybe at local parts stores. Buy a replacement block and remove the broken holder from your block then take one off the new block to use as a replacement. Trim off any of the terminal connection provisions on the new holder as needed to make it fit in the old block.

If the buss bar is exposed or accessible you could probably use a thin headed 2-56 or 4-40 screw and a nut/lockwasher in place of a rivet to attach the new holder to your fuse block but that would depend entirely on whether the Ford block has an arrangement where the buss bar is accessible so the nut could be held. Also the buss bar would need to be recessed and/or the nut well insulated so there would be no danger of a short to any metal behind the block. If the buss bar connection is molded into the block and hidden then that presents more of a challenge.

Here is an ebay offering of the type I think might work but there are many single holders and cheaper options listed. If you search for 3AG fuse block several will come up.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-BUSS-Dual-Clip-3AG-Chassis-Mount-Fuse-Holder-Block-P-N-3823-2-7-75-ea/223460002652?hash=item3407410b5c:g:TmcAAMXQh5JRl-1f

Posted on: 2019/8/19 13:26
Howard
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