Re: 1928 526 block removal

Posted by DavidM On 2012/12/20 4:14:34

Dell,
The big ends on the 633 are too big for the bore so I simply lifted the block off the crankcase with the pistons after removing the big end caps. I don't know whether this applies to the 526. To reassemble it I fitted the pistons to the block before lowering it into position while turning the crankshaft to receive the big ends. I did it alone but it would be easier with 2 people. I am pretty sure I only tilted the radiator forward enough to remove the water pump but it would be easier to remove the radiator .
I would like comment on the cracks because I had a similar problem. My car had a number of cracks between the valve seats.
I discussed the problem with a number of experts and was persuaded that there was a good chance that the cracks could be pinned (Metalock) and I had this done by a very reputable operator who said that the risk was that there would not be enough metal thickness to support the pins. The repair failed very quickly and I believe that years of internal corrosion had weakened the block causing the cracks and causing the failure of the pins - I would not try this process in a combustion chamber again.
I discussed welding of the block with a company that had a good reputation for this type of work on old engines. They advised that the repair would probably be successful, it would be very expensive and once completed the bores and all faces would need to be re-machined to rectify the distortion caused by the welding.
I did nothing for a while and was extremely fortunate in having a friend donate his spare block which I had sleeved to take the new pistons from my engine and the car has been good since.
Turning to you car and assuming you do not have a spare block, any attempt to repair it will probably require valve inserts and cylinder sleeves, after the cracks are welded or pinned. The cracks would indicate that it is very likely that your block has lost much of its strength to corrosion and this would put at risk any repairs. I doubt that a block that has failed as your has would have the strength to hold the interference fit valve inserts bearing in mind that they do not strengthen the block but increase the stress around the valve seat area.
This is simply my opinion, and I would welcome expert advice if I am wrong.
Keeps us posted on how you fix it.
David