Re: 1934 1103 passenger side trico wiper motor part#

Posted by Tim Cole On 2013/12/15 16:37:04

If you want to diagnose the internal problem then you can buy a hand vacuum pump, connect it to the motor and measure the leak. It can leak around the shaft, the paddle, or the little directional valve under the cover.

My guess is that if you hold the wiper stationary and pump you will find the maximum leak point in the middle.

The permatex gasket is probably shot and the vacuum held at that point is at a minimum. Permatex is a prewar synthetic so neats foot oil is probably too thin.

Rob is right that the casting is likely bowed because if you squeeze it with your hand it probably will follow through. The middle is also an inflection point where the paddle momentarily floats enough to lose vacuum. So if the casting is worn around the shaft that may be stopping it there. That can be diagnosed by melting beeswax into the bearing and doing the vacuum test.

If time is no object the thing can probably be repaired, but from a commercial standpoint it isn't worth it because when the bill is tallied the result will be a disaster. I remember once Rob did a fantastic on some motors and they bitched to me about the cost. I couldn't believe what I was hearing because if you buy a taillight for modern car you pay through the nose. Of course they always bitched that I was too expensive as well, so I understand this situation.

I remember Peter Tilp had a whole team working on the Vision-All for his Caddy V-16. He said it took 40 hours to fix. I thought that wasn't too bad because that was the first one I ever saw that worked.