Re: Early S-W fuel pumps

Posted by Owen_Dyneto On 2015/12/5 9:15:20

I'm glad you've rethought the use of an electric pump and have decided to go back to the mechanical pump; I think you've made a wise decision. Keep the electric for priming after long storage if you wish - many who do that install them using a "dead man" type switch that requires you to keep your finger on the switch to activate the pump.

I've removed more cylinder heads from this type of engine than I care to remember, rarely is it much of a prolem. Of course I've heard of that old technique of using engine compression to break the gasket seal but never done that. After I remove all the fasteners and anything else in the way I start by using a broad and sharp-edge tool like a putty knife and insert it carefully between the top edge of the gasket and the head and give a few taps with a light hammer and continue doing so by working my way around the perimeter of the head. A second round with a little deeper penetration may be needed but assuming no rust has taken place around the studs, typically it will break loose somewhere in that process and I begin to raise it evenly using spacers like small wooden blocks and the like to get it up high enough to loop a couple of old leather belts beneath it and use them to lift it. If after you remove the head nuts you see rust or corrosion in the space between the stud and the block you may have a blow headgasket, then fill the spaces as best you can with your favorite rust buster (PB Blaster still my favorite) and allow it to work for a few days before you work on it.

Of course in addition to whatever you do when the head is off, you'll need a new head gasket and don't forget to have the threads on the nuts and studs cleaned and dry to get the proper torque application. This little primer might be informative:packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=863