Re: torque specs for the 6
Posted by Packard Newbie On 2020/1/11 3:02:59
Hi Ramcuda,
Welcome to Packard Info. I just completed this on my car a few months ago. The biggest single issue with R&Ring the Exhaust & Intake manifolds is taking care not to break anything! The castings are very old, have been through countless heat cycles and are very brittle. The second most important issue is, of course, to get a good seal. The two manifolds are bolted together and there is a bit of play in their alignment as the intake to exhaust nuts are tightened down. Using a straight edge across the face of both E&I head-to-manifold ports allows for proper positioning prior to attachment to the head. I too looked for torque specs on the stud nuts but couldn't come up with anything concrete. Maybe others will weigh in here with some numbers for you. What I found was they needed re-tightening several times after initial installation as, with the heat they are exposed to, and with some natural gasket compression, I found they went from quite snug to needing 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in the first few miles. On my car, the nuts were brass and I believe this is correct/original and a very uniform tightening sequence, going just a bit at a time on each nut until they are all tight, is the best way to avoid breakage. Remember: old brittle castings, extreme care required! The six exhaust manifold is a difficult to find part, and is not cheap!! Good luck, Chris P.S. Ramcuda, it is also a great time to check out your heat riser valve, make sure it is nice and free and the spring is there, installed correctly and is functioning. (see pic)
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Welcome to Packard Info. I just completed this on my car a few months ago. The biggest single issue with R&Ring the Exhaust & Intake manifolds is taking care not to break anything! The castings are very old, have been through countless heat cycles and are very brittle. The second most important issue is, of course, to get a good seal. The two manifolds are bolted together and there is a bit of play in their alignment as the intake to exhaust nuts are tightened down. Using a straight edge across the face of both E&I head-to-manifold ports allows for proper positioning prior to attachment to the head. I too looked for torque specs on the stud nuts but couldn't come up with anything concrete. Maybe others will weigh in here with some numbers for you. What I found was they needed re-tightening several times after initial installation as, with the heat they are exposed to, and with some natural gasket compression, I found they went from quite snug to needing 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in the first few miles. On my car, the nuts were brass and I believe this is correct/original and a very uniform tightening sequence, going just a bit at a time on each nut until they are all tight, is the best way to avoid breakage. Remember: old brittle castings, extreme care required! The six exhaust manifold is a difficult to find part, and is not cheap!! Good luck, Chris P.S. Ramcuda, it is also a great time to check out your heat riser valve, make sure it is nice and free and the spring is there, installed correctly and is functioning. (see pic)
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