Packard Motor Car Information

1934 1100 Timing

Posted by jbrpackard On 2020/11/13 16:23:01

I have a 1934 1100 8 cylinder and it has been running rough/ loss of power when I give it gas. It starts up fine and idles fine. I have been reading how to check and adjusting the timing on the 1100. I had a couple questions and wanted to add pictures.

I did have this engine rebuilt 2 years ago. It has new points, condensers, plugs and wires. The cap and rotor look good. I might have 100 miles on it since the engine was rebuilt, if that...

I am getting good spark on all spark plugs but I wanted to check the coils buy measuring the ohms.
The primary resistance on both coils are 1.5 ohm
The secondary resistance on coil 1 is 10.38 kohm
The secondary resistance on coil 2 is 10.16 kohm
The ohm reading look good from what I googled.

I have 2 timing lights, one hooked to #1 and the other hooked to #6 spark plug wire. #1 cylinder is reading 4 degrees BTDC and #6 is reading 3 degrees BTDC. I was reading both should be 6 degrees BTDC? Is this right?

I have timing marks on the vibration damper that read "#6-UPDC" Can I use these marking for both #1 and #6 cylinder. I want to say yes just making sure.

Today I will measure the idle rpm, dwell angles for both points, and check cylinder compression.

I was reading that the idle rpm should be around 350 RPM give or take, and the compression should be somewhere between 125 psi for each cylinder?

I was reading when setting the dwell angle, you should place a piece of carboard or thick paper between one of the points. This will allow you to set the dwell angle for the other set of points. (30 degrees?) Repeat this for the other set of points. Once both are set to 30 degrees, the combination of both should read 37 degrees? Is this right or did I read something wrong? In one of the pictures I circled what I think are the screws to adjust the gap for the points. Are these the right ones? I want to say yes, just making sure.

For adjusting the timing, I see there are 3 bolts underneath the distributor body. I can unloosen them and rotate the first set of points.
I was reading about the 2nd set of points, which are on a separate rotating plate. Looking at my pictures, what screw do I have to unloosen or take out to rotate it? I see 4 screws which are all 45 degrees apart. I want to say these are the screws I need to take out/ unloosen!? I have a picture with the 4 screws circled in blue along with the set of points I think they change. I also have the other set of points circled in orange which I think is attached to the distributor. AM I RIGHT? What else do I need to know/ anything to make this easier?

I wanted to adjust the timing with the distributor on the car. I know some of you might say this is harder than synchronizing the two sets of points... This is the way I want to do the timing right now... With the distributor on the car.

I have not touched the carburetor.
Thank you for all the help.

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