Re: ignition timing on 34 1103

Posted by Owen_Dyneto On 2009/4/30 10:40:15
OK, loose distributor, could be your problem.

Best to check your points and gap them first before proceeding.

Both sets of timing marks (#1 and #6) not all that easy to see, I understand why you might have missed them. Driver's side of the engine; the marks are on the outer face edge of the vibration damper, partially obscured by the front motor mount stamping. Pointer is also partially obscured by the lower radiator hose and is on the downside, low. You're really going to need a good light and some patience to find them! I recommend putting a dab of bright yellow or white paint on the tip of the pointer and on the degree line, it will be quite a challenge to get a small paint brush in there and hit the right spot, but ultimately makes life much easier.

If you're going to use a timing light, first do #1 cylinder in the usual manner, and lock the distributor down tight. Then switch your light to #6 and see where the second set of cylinders are firing. Kind of trial and error from that point, but WITHOUT moving the distributor, take off the cap, find the set of points mounted on a secondary, rotateable base plate, loosen the screw hold the points secure, and rotate the eccentric screw that rotates the secondary plate on which that set of points is located. This will change the timing of the 2nd 4 cylinders w/o changing the first. A couple of repititions and you should have it. I continue to use the factory timing, 6 degrees BTDC.

If you're going to do a static timing, take extra care to make sure all the backlash is out of the distributor drive. Sometimes I've removed the rotor, fastened a small C-clamp to the shaft top, and used a rubber band to hold the backlash.

Perhaps you can email me the image of the T&E, <dlczirr@optimum.net>.

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