Re: 1936 120 Overheating

Posted by fredkanter On 2016/9/11 9:16:43

Early cars up to about 40 do not have a pressurized cap, thus the cap is immaterial in the operation of the cooling system. As there has been temperature scans of the inlet/outlets of the radiator with a large temperature differential/drop there seems to be adequate flow. A clogged radiator would show a small differential.

When I had my 37 120 in the 60's I could remove the front clip in 20 minutes....but not the first time as I left out some bolts and of course everything was loose. I put a 41 engine in it and the fan to radiator clearance was 1/2" or less, needed to remove front clip for Wp/fan belt
work. A great $50 car!!

1 Remove large nut under rad and leave out the cotter pin if there is one
2.Unplug headlight wires
3.remove fender/runningboard bolts (6)
4.Remove fender to cowl bolts (4 or 6)
5.Remove hood
6. disconnect hood rods at radiator
7. Disconnect radiator hoses
8. Then disconnect anything you forgot to disconnect ????

Get a friend to lift at one fender while you lift at the other. Lift fenders over wheels and move clip forward.

Before you do this eliminate all other possible sources of overheating and double check everything.

Remove a freeze plug from the lh side of the engine and see if there is rust/scale in the water jacket. Keep in mind the jacket goes about 1" below the bottom of the opening.