Re: T/L Brake light switch

Posted by HH56 On 2017/3/19 14:34:39

Nothing needs to be done to the switch as to bleeding it. Pressure in place does it all. Old and even NOS switches seem to be hit or miss. One thing is make sure the pedal is retracting all the way so there is no chance the compensator valve is staying closed. If the switch is active, pull back on the brake pedal and see if it goes out. If it does there is something binding the pedal that needs to be found. If no change then a bad switch.

Rather than get another 3 pin switch, I would get one of the replacement kits from Dwight Heinmulller or the Pacific Northwest region or maybe even one of the vendors. That kit uses an ordinary easily found and inexpensive 2 prong switch and adds a relay to do the TL switch function. Original wiring plugs right in.

Several of us have gone one farther and completely replaced the hydraulic switch. We have mounted a mechanical switch to the steering column inside the car which is operated directly by the pedal arm. A short extension loom goes out and connects to the original plug.