Re: Valve adjustment - 1936 std 8

Posted by LOL On 2019/8/2 17:41:32

Update:

So I narrowed it down to two things. My #7 intake valve is not seating correctly and (of all things...this is really stupid) when I installed the new head gasket I didn't remove the hood. In so doing, I had to wrestle the distributor drive shaft into position (it's too long to take out with the hood in place) and managed to place it right on the new gasket - resting all of the cylinder head weight on it - in so doing, putting a nice 'dent' in my new gasket. So now cyl 5 leaks into cyl 4 ... .ahhhh ... but there's a beautiful silver lining.

I managed to find a machine shop (5 star rated) and the gent that owns it lives 20 minutes away from my house. We chatted and he's willing to come to my place and do a valve job.

I'm tempted to replace all the valves, guides, seats and springs just so I don't have to do this all over in 200 miles... but he said we'll do an honest evaluation of what it needs and he'll order all the parts and (I still can't believe this) he'll do the work here at my house. Now I don't have to pull the engine - whew!

The engine never ran right from day one - I had the engine rebuilt in one place then took it out and brought it to another and it seems like neither shop really wanted to do the work and they both rushed it - took my money ok though ...

Well now that the front end is off the car, I pulled the water pump which was leaking at the shaft (after 200 miles ... what is it with this car??) so any recommendations you all have for a reputable water pump place I'm all ears - or if it's just the packing material, I can do it myself.

Oh, one more thing, I obviously can't adjust the valve lash hot since it won't be running so I was curious if anyone can recommend a 'cold' valve lash.

Thank you!