Re: 1934 super 8 brake shoe change
Posted by Owen_Dyneto On 2020/1/30 9:02:38
Hi Terry, nice to hear from you again - it has been a while.
Nothing unusual about removing the drums, you'll need a drum puller for the rears, see some enclosed pix. Nothing special for the front but note that your drum hub dust covers are not pressed in but threaded so you'll probably want a strap wrench to get them off. Conventional right-hand thread.
These cars have exceptionally excellent brakes, if it hasn't been done in recent memory, a real thorough and "by the book" adjustment is recommended. Also a good lubrication including removing the cables from the conduits for a cleaning and relube with a good graphited moly grease. The brake adjustment procedure in the Service Letters gives great results, see attached.
When I do my final adjustment (with all wheels off the ground) I use a pedal jack and apply some pressure to the brake pedal and then go around and by hand rotate each wheel to judge the relative braking effect. Note the comments in the specifications and Service Letters regarding a desired difference in brake effort between the front left wheel (the one with the narrower linings) and the front right. It will probably take some stops on a dirt road and measuring skid lengths to get the final adjustment perfect.
Note if you have to replace a rear wheel bearing, each axle has a pair of opposed-facing tapered roller bearings which essentially lock the axle in position so if you have to adjust the axle shaft end play, unlike the junior and later Packards you have to adjust each axle independently. Adjustment is by shims behind the inner bearing race. Pictures in the Parts List provide good detail.
Attach file:
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(462.46 KB)
Nothing unusual about removing the drums, you'll need a drum puller for the rears, see some enclosed pix. Nothing special for the front but note that your drum hub dust covers are not pressed in but threaded so you'll probably want a strap wrench to get them off. Conventional right-hand thread.
These cars have exceptionally excellent brakes, if it hasn't been done in recent memory, a real thorough and "by the book" adjustment is recommended. Also a good lubrication including removing the cables from the conduits for a cleaning and relube with a good graphited moly grease. The brake adjustment procedure in the Service Letters gives great results, see attached.
When I do my final adjustment (with all wheels off the ground) I use a pedal jack and apply some pressure to the brake pedal and then go around and by hand rotate each wheel to judge the relative braking effect. Note the comments in the specifications and Service Letters regarding a desired difference in brake effort between the front left wheel (the one with the narrower linings) and the front right. It will probably take some stops on a dirt road and measuring skid lengths to get the final adjustment perfect.
Note if you have to replace a rear wheel bearing, each axle has a pair of opposed-facing tapered roller bearings which essentially lock the axle in position so if you have to adjust the axle shaft end play, unlike the junior and later Packards you have to adjust each axle independently. Adjustment is by shims behind the inner bearing race. Pictures in the Parts List provide good detail.
Attach file:
(229.32 KB)
(110.42 KB)
(293.03 KB)
(363.05 KB)
(462.46 KB)
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