WJames, meant to include that you should always have a battery disconnect switch rated for more amps than your starter draws. Get a brass, marine grade Cole Hersee single pole battery switch. Shop around online or check NAPA. In an old body style Packard like yours, just at the front of the driver's seat a good spot, since your battery under the floor there. Make sure your battery secured in its battery box and you've got a thin layer of insulation secured to the bottom of your access panel. That's how we did it on my '40 120.
Since the battery's under the hood in Clippers, i mounted the switch it in the firewall (pictured below), its lever under the dash well above the clutch pedal. Do not understand the cheap switches mounted on a battery post. Who wants to open and close their hood every time they want to shut off or turn on battery? These are luxe cars, yes?
We using battery switches always have them shut off while trickle charging. The closer any battery kept to 100% charged, the longer it will last, though again, it's a good idea to deep cycle any battery occasionally as mentioned above. An Optima tech suggested in cars sitting for months, turning on the head or fog/driving lights for 20-30 minutes, running the battery down, then fully charging it immediately.
Double aught (00) solid copper battery cable, available at any big rig supply house, ends both crimped and soldered, all you need, short, most direct path possible. "Heavy duty" battery cable from your local auto parts store in this 12-volt age way too skimpy.
That's all you need to know. Ross and the others give good advice.
Your Milway, NJ, population just under 1,000, despite 47 miles southeast of Philadelphia, looks downright bucolic, a swell place to enjoy an old car on two-lane roads with traffic like 1940.
Attach file:
disconnect.jpg (37.21 KB)
This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=284833