Re: Electromatic clutch operation

Posted by Jim Kavanagh On 2009/8/5 15:00:00

HH56
Thanks for supplying page 17! Now I know the remaining tests to perform on the electrical.

I took time last night to work through some of this. I followed the testing in the sequence set forth in the training manual.
Here is what I found:

Switches
Low and reverse.....OK
Direct speed........OK
Accelerator.........OK
Second speed........OK
Lockout.............Failed
Governor............Appeared to fail (based solely on the color of the wires, it appeared the results were exactly opposite of expected - burn at AD terminal, no burn at EC terminal. My wires are all gathered in a taped loom, so I can't trace back.)
Can the Electromatic clutch even operate if these are reversed? I am a little hesitant to just cross the wires. Would this affect the OD?

Solenoid
Low and reverse.....OK
Direct speed........Unable to perform the test - the wires to my solenoid are of a different color than those specified in the manual.
Second Speed and second speed circuit - Unable to perform. I am not on jacks, so access is tough, and I was unsure which solenoid at the trans is the second speed switch vs. the low and reverse. I think the second speed is the one on the passenger side of the trans. I'll do these remaining test this week end.

I did each test in order, but assumed each was stand-alone. That is, if I disconnected a wire for a test, I reconnected it before proceeding to the next test. Hopefully, this was right.

I am wondering if the lockout switch failure or the apparent reversed wiring of the Governor switch could be related to a recent trouble with my OD.
My OD died about a month ago. Prior to that, it worked fine except that I would occasionally hear a "buzzing" when the OD light would come on, which would end when I released the pedal and the drop into OD would occur.
When I started the above tests, I first replaced my OD fuse, which was fried.
Last night I drove the car for the first time since replacing the fuse.
The car went into OD as it should, with no buzzing sound noted when the OD light came on, but it immediately (maybe two seconds later) popped back out of OD and would not re-engage into OD, although the dash indicator light remained lit. I am assuming that the OD Solenoid is bad, as it was replaced with another well-used one about a year ago. I have not pulled it yet. But the original was cooked at the time of replacement.
Does the failure of the lockout switch or the Governor affect the OD, or are they two completely different systems?